In 1956, as sharecropping was being phased out, the De Marchi family from Piedmont acquired two estates in San Donato, which they merged to create Isole e Olena. Paolo de Marchi emerged as a pivotal figure in the Chianti Classico region, which had previously focused on quantity over quality.
Recognizing the need for viticultural reform, Paolo championed Sangiovese—a vine he revered. At that time, Chianti Classico mandates allowed for 15-30% of Trebbiano, a white grape, in the blend. However, the regulations were based on the area cultivated instead of grape yield, meaning that Trebbiano’s high production could result in a mixture dominated by this grape.
Emanuele Reolon, the Technical Director who began in September 2023 after Isole e Olena’s acquisition by the EPI Group, noted, “Paolo brought the Piedmontese style to Tuscany.” He redefined how Sangiovese was treated, similar to Nebbiolo, and introduced terraced vineyards that revived previously neglected lands. This approach addressed soil erosion concerns caused by mechanization.
In 1980, Paolo launched Cepparello, becoming one of the first wines made solely from Sangiovese. After selling the estate to EPI in 2022, he stayed briefly before departing in 2024. Reolon assured that EPI’s changes align with Paolo’s vision of freshness and elegance, showcasing the estate’s remarkable terroir.
The estate spans 56 hectares of vineyards, complemented by 16 hectares of olive trees and 250 hectares of forest, with altitudes ranging from 300-500 meters. Among the latest releases are the 2023 Chardonnay and the 2022 Cepparello, alongside a 2022 Chianti Classico. Although Reolon blended these reds, he didn’t make them himself.
Initially produced in 1987, the Chardonnay was a rarity at the time, inspired by Paolo’s love for Burgundy. Six hectares now produce 20,000 bottles annually, three being from the original plantings.
Due to climate change, Isole e Olena has recognized an urgent need to adapt. They have experienced a two-week maturation delay for both Chardonnay and Sangiovese and are exploring longer-cycle clones and climate-suited rootstocks. Additionally, they are shifting from small oak barrels to larger formats and deeply analyzing soil conditions in collaboration with Pedro Parra.
Notably, Isole e Olena adopted screwcap closures for Cepparello in 2005 for the UK and Australian markets. Despite regulations preventing their use for Chianti Classico, they remain advocates for screwcaps across their range.
The Wines
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Isole e Olena Chardonnay 2023 IGT Toscana, Italy
- Alcohol: 14.5%. A challenging rain-filled vintage, resulting in low acidity and blocked malolactic fermentation. Fermented in French oak, one-third new. Rich yet pure, showcasing sweet pears and peaches with a touch of oak spice. 92/100
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Isole e Olena Chardonnay 2013 IGT Toscana, Italy
- Alcohol: 14%. A stunning wine with a full gold color enriched with honey and spice. It has focused fruit notes balanced by refreshing acidity. 95/100
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Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2022 Italy
- Alcohol: 14.5%. A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, aged in large foudres. A hot vintage crafted into a powerful wine featuring bold black cherry and a structured finish. 95/100
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Isole e Olena Cepparello 2022 IGT Toscana, Italy
- Alcohol: 15%. Transitioning to larger oak barrels, this vintage offers a complex nose of tar and spice. Bright raspberry and red cherry flavors highlight its freshness and vibrancy. 95/100
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Isole e Olena Cepparello 2013 IGT Toscana, Italy
- Alcohol: 14%. Capturing ripe black fruits combined with balsamic notes, this mature yet impactful wine still has potential for further aging. 93/100
For more details, check out their official site.