Singular Beauty
Inspired by a single half-bottle of the 2011 Hugel Grossi Laüe Gewurztraminer, Andrew Jefford reflects on a wine experience that transcended expectations. Jefford laments only purchasing one half-bottle, remembering how disarming and authentic the wine proved to be. Despite its smaller format and 14 years of age, it presented itself in spotless condition, offering a harmonious blend of honey, flowers, and ginger over a creamy texture. Unlike many dry Gewurztraminers that often fall flat, this vintage enchantingly balanced sweetness with a rich and tender finish, showcasing a memorable harmony and complexity.
The wine’s essence pulls the drinkers in effortlessly, with flavors that linger and a structure that invites appreciation. This was a far cry from the typical dry Gewurztraminer experiences that Jefford likens to unbalanced bitterness. The 2011 Grossi Laüe stood out by incorporating spice and a deftly integrated alcohol level, alluding to a singular beauty that is rarely observed in the realm of wine.
Hugel’s tasting room is located at the corner of Riquewihr’s picturesque streets in Alsace, a town with a storied past that includes sieges and the ravages of war. Originally fortified in the 13th century, Riquewihr has managed to retain its charm through the ages, now characterized by its colorful façades and half-timbered houses.
The historical context is significant, as it was during the Thirty Years’ War that Hans Ulrich Hugel arrived from Switzerland in 1639 to a region devastated by conflict. The wine industry’s deeply troubled history in Alsace is underscored by wars that repeatedly changed the region’s nationality and altered its viticultural landscape. The scars left by these events have shaped Alsace’s contemporary wine identity, making its current renaissance particularly poignant and noteworthy.
Jefford posits that, at present, Alsace represents perhaps the most exciting wine region in France, as it stands on the brink of rediscovery—an opportunity to delve beyond the traditional confines of grape varieties and explore the nuances of terroir. The notion of a revitalized Alsace, embracing both its historical complexity and promising potential, challenges the norms of wine appreciation, encouraging a fresh examination of parcels, sites, and climat.
The Grossi Laüe, translating to “Grosses Gewächs” or grand cru in the local dialect, serves as a testament to the region’s evolving narrative. The Hugel family’s decision to officially include "grand cru" on their labels in 2015 marked a significant milestone in recognizing the extraordinary potential of vineyards like Riquewihr’s Sporen and Schoenenbourg.
As the journey through Alsace continues to unfold, wine lovers may look forward to a future that celebrates rediscovery, where the delicate interplay of grape varieties and varied terrains flourishes. In Jefford’s view, the region is ripe with possibilities, promising a wealth of beautiful and distinct wines that embrace the complexity of the land and its storied past.