Marc Bouffard’s book, Saint-Julien: Vineyards, Cellars, People, and Place, serves as an essential reference for enthusiasts of the Bordeaux appellation. Weighing over 4.5 pounds, it’s designed for detailed exploration rather than casual reading, and although it resembles a coffee table book, its substance far exceeds that.
This volume is the first in a series aimed at providing comprehensive insights into all major Bordeaux appellations. Bouffard acknowledges the need for a revisitation of Saint-Julien amidst a changing landscape, reflecting on how each new book could eventually lead back to the beginning. The title evokes an inherent elegance and balance that Bouffard notes is characteristic of Saint-Julien, bridging the graceful Margaux to the robust Pauillac.
Bouffard’s motivations for starting this series with Saint-Julien stem from his personal connections with notable figures in the region’s wine industry, such as the Barton-Sartorius family and winemakers from estates like Léoville and Ducru-Beaucaillou. He recognizes that while these friendships may introduce some bias, they also provide invaluable insights into the châteaux that he wishes to share.
The heart of the book lies in its meticulous profiles of Saint-Julien’s eleven classed growths. Each chapter dives into the history, geology, vineyard practices, and tasting notes of the estates, offering readers a thorough understanding of each property. Topics range widely from scientific practices to food pairings, including specific suggestions like pairing Beychevelle with veal and suggesting a fine Léoville-Las Cases with lamb, showcasing the book’s culinary insights.
Accompanying Bouffard’s text are detailed maps and photographs, most of which he captured himself, documenting the ongoing transformations at various châteaux, including new cellars at estates such as Beychevelle and Lagrange. These renovations reflect a commitment to quality and a renaissance within the region.
While Bouffard writes candidly about his favored châteaux, he also contextualizes Bordeaux’s history, including remarks on its "golden era" in the early to mid-20th century, discussing both its high and low points that complicate such a simple designation. Furthermore, he briefly touches on the controversial en primeur system, hinting at its diminishing relevance in today’s market.
This book, stemming from Bouffard’s deep appreciation for wine and its characteristics, positions itself as a valuable resource for wine lovers and scholars alike. As he continues his journey through the other Bordeaux appellations in the series, readers can expect a thorough exploration that promises to enrich their understanding of Bordeaux for years to come.
Saint-Julien: Vineyards, Cellars, People, and Place
Published by Wine Education Council and Académie du Vin Library; 368 pages; €76.95