In January, Neil Goodwin MW found himself on an unforgettable journey to taste what is believed to be the last bottle of Romanée-Conti from 1899. This bottle symbolizes far more than just a luxury wine; it represents a pivotal moment in wine history and the connections that wine can foster among people.
Goodwin’s adventure began in the frosty streets of Paris as he prepared to visit the Michelin-starred restaurant Auprès de Clocher in Pommard, where this precious bottle was to be shared. The bottle, purchased by Soo Hoo Khoon Peng, a collector and co-owner of the Australian wine producer Bass Phillip, was intended for a uniquely personal occasion—his 50th birthday celebration. For Soo Hoo, wine signifies learning and human connection, thus highlighting its true essence beyond mere status.
Upon arrival, Goodwin marveled at the exquisite bottle resting on a mantle, its tattered label and adequate fill hinting at its storied past. Despite having undergone a long journey through time, the vintage remained intact, and as photographers captured the moment, guests began to assemble.
Among those attending was Régis Cimmati, the fine wine director at Maison Pion, who valued the bottle at approximately $118,000 solely based on its heritage. Another special guest was Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, whose rich anecdotes breathed life into the occasion. He shared that the wine was bottled in Santenay during a time when horse-drawn transport was the norm and delineated its historical journey through the hands of the families who owned the vineyard.
The fascinating aspect of this particular bottle is how it was almost lost to history. It had been part of a six-pack of unrecognized 19th-century wines that sold for a mere €50 in an auction after the last de Brou de Laurière family member passed away. Eventually, a discerning buyer acquired it, leading to its current celebratory moment.
As the event progressed, William Kelley, editor-in-chief of Wine Advocate, was entrusted with the honor of uncorking the vintage. Everyone held their breath in anticipation. Thankfully, the wine was neither corked nor volatile. Its tawny hue combined with hints of dried quince and tea leaves revealed a complexity that transcended mere fruity notes.
De Villaine expressed admiration for the wine’s lingering finish, while Kelley perceived its deep vinosity as reflective of the pre-phylloxera vines. On that day, amidst a gathering of friends sharing sublime bottles, it was evident how wine cultivates joy and connection, marking significant moments in time.
Goodwin concluded that the power of the 1899 bottle lay not only in its age or complexity but in its ability to gather people together, serving as a timeless reminder of the celebrations that wine facilitates.