No one seems to doubt that polvo à lagareiro, octopus with potatoes and olive oil, is a traditional dish within Portugal’s culinary heritage. It is special enough to be served at festive occasions like Christmas Eve, yet simple enough for everyday meals. However, its exact origins and history remain elusive.
The dish is believed to date back centuries, with references to octopus as a staple in Portugal as far back as Phoenician times. This seafood was harvested along the Atlantic coast and prepared through sun-drying or salting methods, similar to cod. Today, traditional sun-drying of octopus can still be witnessed on the beaches near Nazaré, located about 75 miles north of Lisbon.
Despite the dish’s long history, no early recipes have been identified, which might seem surprising given Portugal’s rich culinary literature. The Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria de Portugal, dating back to 1565, and Domingos Rodrigues’ Arte de Cozinha, the first printed Portuguese cookbook from 1680, do not appear to include it.
Opinions diverge regarding the origins of polvo à lagareiro, with some claiming it comes from Trás-os-Montes, known for its olive oil, while others suggest it hails from the Beiras region, which stretches from the Atlantic coast to Spain.
The term lagareiro translates to an olive oil producer, reinforcing the fact that the dish heavily relies on the generous use of oil, much like other Portuguese dishes including bacalhau à lagareiro.
In Portuguese cuisine, fish and seafood take precedence over meat, with octopus being particularly popular alongside cod, sardines, and hake. The preparation of polvo à lagareiro is straightforward but distinct: the octopus is tenderized—though methods vary, freezing is commonly used today—then cooked in its own juices along with an onion and bay leaves. Typically, the octopus is grilled or roasted alongside batatos a murro—small potatoes boiled and lightly crushed to break their skins.
The dish is finished with a healthy drizzle of olive oil and often includes garlic and herbs such as cilantro or parsley before being grilled or baked.
When it comes to wine pairings, simplicity reigns. The richness from the olive oil and the potential smoky flavors from grilling suggest a preference for white wines with good acidity, avoiding overly fruity options. Interestingly, many wines from regions with saline or mineral characteristics pair well with polvo à lagareiro. Suggestions include:
- Santorini Assyrtiko
- Vinho Verde
- Godello
- Rías Baixas Albariño
- Etna Bianco
- Austrian Grüner Veltliner
For those inclined toward red wines, options with low tannins and a level of acidity, alongside a mineral or herbal facet, would work best. Some recommended varietals include Beaujolais Crus, high-elevation Garnacha, and unoaked Barbera.
Ultimately, polvo à lagareiro is celebrated not just as a dish, but as a reflection of Portugal’s rich maritime history and cultural identity. The recipe continues to be cherished and passed down from generation to generation, embodying the essence of the Portuguese connection to the sea.