Is democracy the safest form of government, or could autocracy have its merits? These urgent questions mirror broader issues influencing the wine world just as they do all aspects of society. Yet, while many debates seem locked in contrasts, there’s a different dichotomy in wine aesthetics currently taking shape. When you indulge in a special bottle, do you seek richness or freshness?
While the type and vintage of wine are significant factors, the preferences of producers have noticeably shifted over the past 25 years. Historically, the focus leaned heavily towards opulence and density until around 2010. Since then, the trend has skewed towards valuing freshness more.
The transition is not merely a matter of alcohol content. The ideal levels have changed from once being symbols of quality to feeling like burdens to some; terms such as unctuous and concentrated have lost their appeal, supplanted by descriptors like pure, precise, and coiled. In essence, wine critics now favor delicacy over density, marking a profound shift in preferences.
Australia’s wine landscape exemplifies this change, having adopted the trend earlier than others. In Bordeaux, vintages like 2016 and 2019 showcase this new ethos, though Napa’s appreciation for freshness is still emerging. Regions like Piedmont are also evolving, moving away from new oak influence yet still grappling with definitions of ripeness.
This shift could reflect a generational change among wine critics or perhaps a response to the climate crisis. Nostalgia for past wine styles also plays a role, but the desire for uncompromising ripeness remains strong. The quest for resonance—where ripeness is complemented by careful winemaking practices—continues to be paramount.
In this month’s tasting, a standout experience was with Jean-Marc Lafont at Domaine de Bel-Air in Beaujolais. His Granit et Manganèse Moulin-à-Vent 2020 beautifully exemplified the balance of lush texture and vibrant, fresh fruit flavors, suggesting that both richness and brightness can coexist harmoniously.
In conclusion, as the wine world grapples with evolving preferences and aesthetic ideals, the ultimate challenge remains calculating the finest balance between the complex expressions of each vintage.