To commemorate the 80th anniversary of Kumeu River estate, Paul Brajkovich organized a tasting event in London, showcasing their estate and single-vineyard Chardonnays.
The Brajkovich family is a significant player in New Zealand’s wine industry. Their journey began in 1944 when Mick and Katé Brajkovich, Croatian immigrants, purchased a small piece of land in Kumeu, near Auckland. Initially, the estate focused on hybrid grapes, but shifted its focus to Chardonnay in the 1980s. Today, the estate continues to thrive under the stewardship of Maté’s children, with Michael Brajkovich, New Zealand’s first Master of Wine, overseeing production for over 40 years.
Kumeu River Wines, named in 1986, began exporting shortly after. Farr Vintners was among the first to bring their Chardonnay to the UK and has continued to support the estate since 1990. At the tasting held by Paul along the Thames, Michael highlighted how their vineyard, which at one point was only 5 hectares, has expanded significantly over the decades.
Currently, Kumeu’s region has limited vineyard owners; only six other wineries operate nearby. The total area for viticulture in West Auckland is a modest 285 hectares, with only 71 hectares designated for Chardonnay, in stark contrast to Gisborne’s larger vineyard area. The Kumeu region holds a unique position—close to Auckland yet still rural, and the land is highly valued, complicating future expansions.
When they faced limitations in Kumeu, the Brajkovich family ventured into Hawkes Bay, acquiring a 28-hectare vineyard in 2017. Michael described the climate in Kumeu as cool and maritime, with unique terroir influencing the distinctive characteristics of their Chardonnay.
Kumeu River’s vineyards utilize alluvial, clay-based soil, promoting natural water retention. Each vineyard site produces unique flavor profiles, with Coddington being lush and ripe, while Hunting Hill provides a heightened floral quality. Maté’s Vineyard is noted for its concentrated richness.
The wine production process involves hand-harvesting and whole-bunch pressing. Michael uses natural yeast for fermentation and minimizes the use of bâtonnage compared to years past. Their oak treatment varies by vineyard, ensuring that each wine reflects its specific terroir.
In recent tastings, vintages from 2020 and 2019 were compared, showcasing rich flavors that could benefit from additional bottle aging. The 2019 vintage was noted for its ripe characteristics while the 2020s were compact and rich. Wines were rated for their aging potential, with some expected to last longer than the traditional 8–10 years suggested.
Looking ahead, Michael aims to continue their work in Kumeu while exploring the possibilities of their vineyards in Hawkes Bay, which have already begun producing promising, vibrant wines. Overall, the 80th anniversary tasting reinforced Kumeu River’s standing in the global Chardonnay wine landscape and highlighted their commitment to quality and tradition.
For more information on Kumeu River Wines and their offerings, visit their official website.