Piedmont, Italy, is home to several small DOCGs, particularly in the northeastern regions, where Nebbiolo is the star grape. The best-known areas include Gattinara and Ghemme, along with Bramaterra, Lessona, Sizzano, Boca, and Fara. Despite the historical struggles of Nebbiolo in these cooler climates, recent advancements in viticulture have led to a shift in wine profiles.
Traditionally, Nebbiolo wines from this sub-alpine region were characterized by their lean structure, with high acidity and bone-dry tannins. They often required lengthy aging, resulting in complex tertiary aromas but were generally considered rigid and less approachable. Today’s offerings, however, are evolving. Modern producers are crafting wines that sport immediate fruitiness and softer tannins while still capturing the variety’s hallmark floral and herbal nuances.
Unlike the increasingly high-alcohol Barolos, which can exceed 15% in ABV, these northern Nebbiolos typically register between 13% and 14% alcohol, even in warmer vintages. The drier summers and increased solar exposure are producing wines with lower acidity and more pronounced fruit characteristics, but the changes are not entirely negative. As climate zones shift north, winemakers like Federico Rinolfi from La Piemontina are noting improvements in ripeness and the quality of their grapes.
The terroir varies significantly across the micro-regions, with soil types playing a crucial role. Gattinara, notable for its volcanic soils, imparts a distinct minerality that sets its wines apart. In contrast, the glacial-alluvial soils of Ghemme and Bramaterra bring in softer textures and rounder profiles, while Lessona’s sandy soils enhance floral notes.
However, with only a handful of hectares under vine in these sub-zones, the production is limited. Gattinara, for instance, produces fewer than 500,000 bottles annually. Therefore, sourcing these unique wines may require some effort, but the tantalizing flavor profiles make them worthwhile.
For those eager to explore, here are a few standouts from the Alto Piemonte region:
- Antoniolo, San Francesco Riserva, Gattinara, 2019
- Travaglini, Vigna Ronchi Riserva, Gattinara, 2019
- Antoniotti Odilio, Bramaterra, 2021
- La Piemontina, Ghemme, 2020
- Ioppa, Ghemme, 2020
In summary, the Piedmont region’s small Nebbiolo outposts are producing exceptional wines that combine tradition with modern winemaking techniques, offering unique interpretations of this noble grape.