The 30th anniversary of Ca’ Marcanda marked a significant occasion for Gaia Gaja as she showcased a selection of wines from the Gaja estate, located in Bolgheri, at 67 Pall Mall in London. Established by her father, Angelo Gaja, in the mid-1990s, the estate has emerged as a benchmark in Italian wine over the past three decades. The evening featured eight vintages of the estate’s flagship wine, Camarcanda, stretching from the inaugural 2000 vintage to the latest release in 2023.
Although Angelo Gaja, currently 86, was not present at the event, his influence resonated throughout the gathering. Known for his energetic spirit and insightful opinions, he continues to engage actively in the wine community. Gaia humorously noted that the family often files his unsolicited advice under “I told you so.” Despite stepping back from daily operations in 2012, his involvement remains significant.
To fully grasp Ca’ Marcanda’s significance, Gaia emphasized the family’s journey and achievements in Barbaresco, the family’s traditional home. Founded by Giovanni Gaja in 1859, the family winery fundamentally transformed under each generation’s leadership, driven by a philosophy of “constructive contrarianism”—achieving excellence through innovation rather than tradition.
Angelo’s approach included reducing yields, shortening fermentation times, and experimenting with barrique aging, even utilizing international grape varieties in the 1970s. His forward-thinking stance, often at odds with his father’s traditional views, led to the memorable name of a Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Darmagi, meaning “what a pity.” This willingness to innovate paved the way for the family’s expansion into other notable wine regions, including their acquisition of Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino and more recently Idda in Sicily.
The establishment of Ca’ Marcanda in 1996 was a personal and strategic endeavor for Angelo, whom Gaia lightheartedly describes as seeking a “midlife crisis” vineyard over other common pursuits. This region, previously unexplored, offered unique weather conditions and diverse soils that could yield exceptional wines.
Naming the winery Ca’ Marcanda—a nod to the lengthy negotiations for the land—was reflective of the journey to acquire the site, a process that took nearly two years. This estate is not merely another winery for the family; it represents Angelo’s first creation from the ground up, often regarded as his favorite by family members.
The winery’s design emphasizes integration with the Bolgheri landscape: predominantly underground construction with a modern wine-making facility and artistic features. The site houses deep topsoils above compact clay, which limits vine vigor and concentrates flavors, categorized into two soil types—terre bianchi for structured wines and terre brune for those with more generous profiles.
Ca’ Marcanda produces four key wines: Camarcanda from Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Magari, a Bordeaux blend, Promis with a mix of Merlot, Syrah, and Sangiovese, and Vistamare, a white wine. Angelo Gaja has emphasized the goal of crafting elegant wines rather than heavy, extracted ones in response to climate challenges, advocating for continuous gradual adjustments.
The tasting event showcased nine vintages of Camarcanda, reflecting its evolution from a Merlot-heavy blend to the present Cabernet-focused style. Highlights included:
- 2023: A lighter vintage with fresh cherry and herbal notes, approachable with elegant tannins; Score: 91
- 2022: Rich and concentrated with dark berry flavors and a youthful structure; Score: 95
- 2021: Opulent dark fruit, fine tannins, and fresh acidity; Score: 95
- 2020: Rich, pure black fruit supported by herbal notes and seamless elegance; Score: 95
- 2019: Rich, opulent with herbal undertones promising great aging potential; Score: 95
- 2016: Opulent ripe fruit, excellent freshness, and aging potential; Score: 95
- 2015: Slightly lighter but balanced with pure fruit and a savory finish; Score: 93
- 2007: A shift back to the earlier style with a mix of oak and lively, ripe fruit; Score: 93
- 2000: The debut wine, exhibiting complexity with generous oak influence; Score: 92
As Ca’ Marcanda celebrates its 30th anniversary, it stands not just as a successful winery but as a testament to the evolution and ongoing development that reflects the Gaja legacy.