Argentina and Chile’s wine scene is increasingly focused on expressing place and variety, moving beyond the once-dominant style of powerful, heavily oaked Malbec. A tasting of wines chosen by their makers offered a striking illustration of that diversity: among the twelve bottles, only one was Malbec.
Matias Riccitelli
Matias Riccitelli makes wines from Patagonia and from Mendoza’s Las Compuertas and Monasterio. His wines are highly sought after, but he is known for a modest manner and a strong commitment to the character of each site.
- Bastardo, Old Vines from Patagonia 2024 — Made from Trousseau vines planted in the 1970s. Whole bunches were foot-crushed before fermentation, then the wine was pressed into large oak foudres. Light in colour, supple and fresh, it offers red cherry, plum, spice and earthy, iron-like notes. 94/100
- Semillon, Old Vines from Patagonia 2024 — Picked early, this is crystalline and bright, with citrus, floral and waxy character. Part of the wine underwent flor ageing, adding a saline edge. Expressive and layered. 95/100
- Pinot Noir, La Carrera 2024, Uco Valley — From a high-altitude site at 1,700 metres, with calcareous soils. A portion was fermented with whole bunches and the wine matured in foudres. Fresh, supple and finely detailed, with cherry and plum fruit. 94/100
- Chardonnay, La Carrera 2024, Uco Valley — Fermented in foudre and marked by freshness, minerality and gentle spice. Linear and textured. 95/100
Rafael Urrejola, Undurraga
Urrejola joined Undurraga in 2007 and helped develop Terroir Hunter, a range of wines designed to showcase Chile’s varied soils and climates. A longtime advocate for the country’s diverse terroirs, he sees the influence of altitude and the ocean as opening possibilities across Chile.
- Undurraga Terroir Hunter Pinot Noir Trama 2022, San Antonio Valley — Grown on limestone just five kilometres from the ocean. Gently extracted, with 25% whole bunches, indigenous yeast and concrete ageing. Bright and supple, with strawberry, cherry, herbs and white pepper. 94/100
- Undurraga Terroir Hunter Chardonnay 2023, Limarí Valley — An expressive wine with orange peel, mandarin, pear, apricot and spice, balanced by lively acidity. 94/100
- Undurraga Carmenere Extinto 2022, Cachapoal Valley — Focused and intense, showing blackcurrant and black cherry, with spice and a salty, mineral finish. 94/100
- Undurraga Garnacha Cauquenes 2021, Maule Valley — Garnacha grafted onto old vines produces a juicy, harmonious wine with black cherry and blackberry fruit. 92/100
Juampi Michelini, Zorzal
Juampi Michelini and his brothers founded Zorzal to make wines that reflect the calcareous mountain soils of Argentina’s Uco Valley. The Michelini family has helped lead a shift toward earlier harvesting, restrained oak and low-intervention winemaking.
Michelini recalled that Argentine wine once leaned toward bold, ripe, heavily oaked Malbec. The newer focus, he said, is on freshness, finesse and elegance, with a clearer understanding of soils and terroir.
- Zorzal Malbec Gran Terroir 2024, Uco Valley — From four parcels of limestone and sand, fermented in concrete and aged for a year in used 500-litre barrels. Ripe yet balanced, with black cherry, plum, spice and a firm, grippy edge. 94/100
- Zorzal Chardonnay Terroir Único 2024, Uco Valley — Fresh and crystalline, with citrus, pear and chalky detail. 93/100
- Zorzal Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc 2024, Uco Valley — Matured in concrete eggs. Rich and complex, with blackberry fruit, grainy tannins and a salty, mineral finish. 94/100
- Zorzal Chardonnay Parcelario 2024, Uco Valley — From a limestone-rich block and regarded as the winery’s top Chardonnay. Bright, linear and complex, with lovely weight. 95/100
Derek Mossman Knapp, Garage Wines
Derek Mossman Knapp has long championed the Maule region through Garage Wines, working with dry-farmed vineyards and old vines.
- Garage Wines Garnacha Cariñena Monastrell Parcel Series, Sauzal Vineyard, The Ploughmen 2019, Maule — Savoury and spicy, with blackberry, black cherry and earthy notes. Fresh and focused, finishing firmly structured. 91/100
- Garage Wines Single Ferment Old Vine Pale Rosado 2023, Maule — Pale pink, bright and supple, with juicy cherry and raspberry, lively acidity and a touch of grip. 91/100
- Garage Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Parcel Selection, Renacido Vineyard 2021, Maule — Made without new oak. Juicy black cherry and blackberry fruit meet fresh acidity and a supple but structured finish. 94/100
- Garage Wines Truquilemu Syrah Lot 84 2019, Maule — Bold and tightly structured, with black cherry, plum, dense texture and a slight reductive note. 92/100
The tasting showed how producers across Argentina and Chile are drawing on altitude, ocean influence, old vines and distinctive soils to make wines with freshness and individual character—far beyond a single signature grape.