Chêne Bleu winery sits in a ninth-century priory in the Dentelles de Montmirail, in southeast France. Its 30 hectares of vines are surrounded by forest within a UNESCO biosphere reserve, home to wildlife ranging from peregrine falcons and wild boar to around 1,400 species of butterflies and moths.
Nicole and Xavier Rolet bought the estate in 1993 and spent 12 years restoring the priory and restructuring the vineyard. Its isolation from other vineyards helped them begin farming organically. “Every aspect of the vineyard has been studied to figure out how we could work within the context of nature,” Nicole says, “without using chemicals.”
Their commitment to protecting biodiversity has deepened over time. Both have worked as senior fellows at Harvard University’s Advanced Leadership Initiative, where Nicole researched regenerative viticulture and Xavier studied regenerative agriculture. The experience reinforced their conviction that avoiding chemical inputs matters beyond the boundaries of a single vineyard.
“It’s the large-scale, systematic use of synthetic chemicals in agriculture that should have us extremely worried,” Nicole says.
In France, vineyards are among the agricultural sectors that use pesticides most intensively. Fungicides account for about 80% of treatments, followed by insecticides at 15% and herbicides at 5%. The average treatment frequency in French vineyards is around two and a half times that of wheat, and 98% of sprayed pesticides are reported to harm non-target organisms directly or indirectly.
“You endanger the long-term viability and productivity of your land by letting these chemicals build up,” Nicole says.
For people who do not own vineyards, the connection to the land can feel distant. But consumers can still influence how it is farmed through their purchases. Buying what Nicole calls “green wine”—wine made without the systematic use of chemical inputs—supports growers who protect soil and surrounding ecosystems, plant cover crops and create wildlife corridors.
Each bottle of organic, biodynamic, regenerative or bee-friendly wine can be a vote for land protection. And consumers do not have to sacrifice choice: these wines are made across different regions, grape varieties and styles. Chilean Pinot Noir, for example, is available from regenerative organic-certified Emiliana Vineyards; Domaine Bousquet offers the same certification for Argentinian Malbec; and California’s Bedrock Wine Co makes Zinfandel from vineyards with living, healthy soils.
The future of the land depends on the choices of both the people who farm it and the people who buy its products.
In the glass
Chêne Bleu’s Grenache-dominant Le Rosé 2023 (93 points; £25.50 from Vinvm) comes from vines planted at elevations of 530 to 550 metres. It opens with floral notes of beeswax and ripe stone fruit, followed by generous freshness and flavour. Plump yet succulent, it has chalky tannins that add structure and finishes with a sweet grapefruit note.