A dinner at Wiltons, hosted by Fine + Rare, brought together 25 wines from two celebrated Italian cooperatives: Cantina Terlano in Alto Adige and Produttori del Barbaresco in Piemonte. The tasting reached back to the 1960s, showcasing how well wines from both producers can age.
Cantina Terlano
Founded in 1893, Cantina Terlano brings together around 200 grape-growing families in Alto Adige. Their vineyards range from 230 to 900 metres above sea level, with many of the most prized sites between 550 and 650 metres. The cooperative’s holdings are divided into roughly 1,500 small parcels, and a vineyard classification helps ensure that growers are rewarded for fruit from top sites.
The region’s historic white varieties include Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay; Sauvignon Blanc arrived in 1910. The wines tasted showed the freshness and tension of the area’s whites, as well as their remarkable capacity to mature.
- Vorberg Riserva 2023 — Fresh and taut, with delicate herbs, mineral notes and a fine, tapering finish. 93/100
- Vorberg Riserva 2019 — Pear and white peach meet spice, salinity and focused acidity. 95/100
- Vorberg Riserva 1966 — A mature, harmonious wine with nuts, honey, apple and a broad, salty finish. 95/100
- Pinot Bianco Rarity 2013 — Textural and precise, with citrus, pear and a saline edge. Bottled in 2025 after extended lees ageing. 95/100
- Pinot Bianco Rarity 2010 — Concentrated and powerful, combining crystalline citrus with honeyed notes, spice and a hint of salt. 95/100
- Pinot Bianco Rarity 2005 — Rich and expansive, with honeyed, oxidative character, green pepper and lively acidity. 94/100
- Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2023 — A field blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, layered with pear, peach and pithy, salty notes. 94/100
- Nova Domus Terlaner Riserva 2013 — Still youthful, with bright apple, pear and white peach, mineral detail and excellent balance. 95/100
- Primo Grand Cuvée 2023 — Sophisticated and intense, with lemon, lime, spice and a touch of toast. 94/100
- Primo Grand Cuvée 2016 — Fine and textured, showing pear, peach, spice and a bright twist of lime. 95/100
- Cantina Terlano 1983 — Pinot Bianco with some Silvaner, offering crystalline citrus, wax, honey, spice and subtle smoky notes. 96/100
- Rarity 1991 — A blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, aged for 24 years on lees. Delicate, pristine and intensely citrusy. 96/100
Produttori del Barbaresco
Produttori del Barbaresco is a small cooperative devoted entirely to Nebbiolo. Its 53 member-farmers tend about 120 hectares in a region with only around 300 hectares of vineyards. The cooperative’s history began in 1894, though it closed during the Fascist era. It was re-established in its modern form in 1958. The single-vineyard wines, made only in the best vintages, were first produced in 1967.
The older Barbarescos demonstrated the variety’s ability to develop complexity while retaining elegance and character.
- Barbaresco 1998 — Rich and ripe, with warm spice, generous texture and impressive depth. 95/100
- Barbaresco 1983 — Mature and savoury, with Madeira-like aromas, orange peel, wax and finely detailed spice. 94/100
- Barbaresco 1982 — Vibrant and elegant, with sweet cherry and plum, savoury spice and remarkable finesse. 98/100
- Barbaresco 1975 — Earthy and firm, with tar, resin, dried herbs and dense raspberry and cherry fruit. 94/100
- Barbaresco 1973 — Supple and graceful, with cherry, herbs, spice and a touch of iron. 97/100
- Barbaresco 1967 — Finely grained and expressive, retaining fruit beneath its mature, gently salty character. 96/100
- Rabajà 2020 — Pure and silky, with raspberry and cherry, layered texture and exceptional elegance. 96/100
- Rabajà 2011 — Savoury and intense, with tar, spice, dark berries and a firm tannic grip. 94/100
- Montestefano Riserva 2016 — A structured, classic Barbaresco with black cherry, fine spice and firm grip. 95/100
- Montestefano Riserva 2014 — Concentrated yet refined, with silky dark fruit, precision and spicy intensity. 96/100
- Pora Riserva 1988 — Taut and savoury, combining mineral notes, wax and woodsmoke with silky tannins. 93/100
- Pora Riserva 1982 — Firm and concentrated, with cherry, spice, orange peel and a focused savoury structure. 96/100
- Ovello 1979 — Earthy and intense, with freshness and savoury, spicy detail. 93/100
The tasting made a strong case for both cooperatives as among the world’s finest. Alongside the wines, Wiltons provided an excellent dinner.