United Airlines is investing in its business-class wine programme as airlines compete to improve their food and drink offerings. Its latest project, Air and Vine, is a custom Sonoma County red blend created with Jesse Katz of Aperture Cellars. The 2024 wine is scheduled to be served in Polaris business class in 2028.
Katz settled on the final blend after nine trials at 35,000 feet. Cabernet Sauvignon leads, with Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The aim was to make a wine that holds on to the character of Alexander Valley’s Farrow Ranch while remaining expressive in the dry, pressurized cabin.
Building a wine list at scale
United’s managing director of hospitality programmes, Aaron McMillan, said the airline wants its wine selection to keep pace with its broader investments in premium travel. The changes coincide with the introduction of upgraded interiors and Studio Polaris seats on new Boeing 787s.
Supplying wine across the airline’s network is a logistical challenge. A typical three-month rotation can require 6,000 to 7,000 cases, which limits the number of smaller producers United can work with. Shorter placements, such as VIK’s one-month appearance, offer one solution. A bespoke wine made with a winemaker provides another, allowing the airline to plan for the necessary volume.
Blending for cabin conditions
Katz’s connection with United began long before the project. Growing up in Colorado, he travelled with his father, photographer Andy Katz, to wine regions around the world, often flying with the airline. Aperture later began supplying Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc for Polaris, leading to the idea of developing a wine specifically for inflight service.
During a September flight from New York to San Francisco, Katz tasted the blend’s components in the cabin. He found that dry air muted aromas and fruit, while making acidity, tannin and texture more prominent. Tasting the wine again on the ground produced the opposite effect, with the aromas opening and the fruit becoming more pronounced.
The cabin tasting influenced the final proportions: 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 6% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Katz said he adjusted the blend to account for qualities that became more noticeable at altitude.
Changes across premium cabins
United is not alone in refreshing its business-class wines. American Airlines began updating its list in May, while Delta relaunched its Delta One programme in October with selections chosen with Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson. Delta’s wines were blind-tasted by SkyMiles members before the final list was set.
United’s Studio lineup generally includes eight wines, among them Laurent-Perrier Champagne and Port. On aircraft with the new interiors, Polaris menus also feature a perforated tasting sheet. Passengers can use it to select up to three wines and compare them side by side.