A new alliance of six producers is redefining the Dão region in Central Portugal, as they emphasize the old world charm and traditional varieties that reflect its unique terroir.
The group, known as “New Dão,” was inspired by Álvaro Castro’s pioneering winemaking at Quinta da Pellada, where a restrained style contrasts with the over-extraction and heavy use of new oak that characterized the 1990s and 2000s. Their shared mission is to revive the diversity of the region’s grape varieties, nodding to the past when quality wines were produced despite the challenges of the dictatorship era.
During this period, many old vineyards were lost, leading to a dominance of varietal blocks targeted toward volume production through mechanization, especially after the 1986 EU subsidies. The result has been a prevalence of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional, leading to wines that often have an overly alcoholic and tannic profile.
The New Dão producers are focusing on traditional grape varieties, such as Baga and Jaen, found in old vineyard blends. They have begun to rehabilitate vineyards and introduce historically significant field blends while aiming for wines with freshness and fine tannins, an ode to Dão’s cool, mountainous climate that balances hot summers with refreshing diurnal shifts.
Among the six producers is António Madeira, who left a successful engineering career in France to help sustain the genetic diversity of Dão’s vineyards. He embraces organic and biodynamic practices, producing exceptional single-vineyard wines that capture the region’s essence. Madeira’s most notable releases include Os Granitos 2023, a blend of over twenty varieties from old vines, and Vinha da Serra, a distinctive wine made predominantly from Tinta Amarela.
Other members of this emerging group include Daniel Niepoort, who has become the head winemaker for Niepoort’s operations in Dão, focusing on crafting high-quality wines from ancient varieties. Their Quinta da Lomba estate allows them to explore the potential of blending old and new vines, resulting in wines that are elegant and expressive.
Marcelo Villela, a Brazilian who formed Textura Wines, and Carlos Raposo, who founded World Wild Wines, are also central figures. Both have brought innovation to the terroir, successfully producing wines that capture the nuances of the Dão’s landscape.
As new methodologies and a return to traditional practices unfold, the Dão region seems poised to reclaim its storied place in the world of winemaking, proving that the future can indeed sprout from the seeds of the past.