Walking through Burgundy’s Côte d’Or several summers ago, the beauty of the vineyards captured my attention, but my companion, a fourth-generation vintner, was less enchanted. Her expression was grave as she introduced me to the reality of the soil we stood on. She filled my hands with remnants of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, lamenting that this “warfare” on nature couldn’t continue.
Fortunately, the wine industry is witnessing a slow shift towards sustainability. The modern vernacular now includes terms like “regenerative” and “renewable,” as wineries increasingly focus on environmentally responsible practices. The book Rooted in Change: The Stories Behind Sustainable Wine by Jane Masters MW and Andrew Neather provides an in-depth report on these developments in sustainability in the wine industry.
The authors, both seasoned professionals with extensive backgrounds in winemaking and journalism, tackle the intricate web of business practices in modern winemaking. Their work emphasizes that while change is occurring, the urgency of environmental challenges remains, given the escalating impacts of climate change.
Sustainability, as defined by the United Nations in 1987, means “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” The book unfolds this definition across multiple dimensions, discussing the growth cycle of vines, winemaking practices, and the implications of packaging choices. It also raises awareness of issues like the carbon emissions associated with heavy glass bottles.
Among inspiring stories, the authors highlight progress made by wine producers towards carbon neutrality. For instance, David Gleave MW of Liberty Wines discusses how they reduced shipping emissions by switching to rail transport. Similarly, Bronco, a major California wine producer, has adopted low-emission railroad freight, showcasing the industry’s potential for innovation and improvement.
However, the book does not shy away from the serious challenges faced by the wine community. In 2024 alone, there were a remarkable 151 extreme weather events worldwide; regions like Champagne are experiencing unprecedented harvests earlier in the year due to warming climates, and drought has severely impacted Chile’s wine-growing areas.
Despite these daunting realities, the narrative is not one of despair. There are many stories of resilience, as vineyard owners embrace renewable energy and foster biodiversity among their crops. The authors take a thoughtful look at how modern technologies—like drones and sensors—are helping winemakers adapt to climate change and ensure sustainability.
Rooted in Change reminds us of the importance of these narratives in the grander scheme of agricultural sustainability. With each glass of wine, we are partaking in a story not only of craftsmanship but also of the ongoing struggle against climate change and ecological degradation. The pressing question remains: can we strike a balance between enjoying our wines and preserving the environment for future generations? The answer lies in our commitment to making sustainable choices, both in wine and beyond.
Rooted in Change: The Stories Behind Sustainable Wine
Jane Masters MW and Andrew Neather
Published by Académie du Vin Library; 248 pages (hardback); $25/£20