Anthony Rose recently joined Scott Becker at a tasting event in London to explore the latest releases from Realm Cellars, a winery that embraces the legacy of Napa Valley wines. The phrase from Shakespeare’s Richard II, “This blessed plot, this earth, this realm,” is inscribed on each cork from Realm Cellars, setting the tone for the event themed “Standing on the Shoulders of Giants.”
Becker, though feeling jet-lagged, led an impressive two-hour tour through 17 significant Napa Valley Cabernets, starting from a historic 1968 Louis Martini to Realm’s own 2023 Houyi Vineyard Heavenly Questions. This tasting wasn’t just about wine but served as a narrative of Napa’s rich history. Becker highlighted influential names like Opus One and Robert Mondavi Winery, marking the evolution of quality and ambition in Napa wine production.
During his discussion, Becker reflected on Napa’s journey from the pioneering days of the 1960s through various challenges, including the phylloxera crisis and the subsequent shift towards balance and drinkability. He acknowledged the criticism that Napa wines can be overly expensive or ripe but remained optimistic about the region’s current trajectory, emphasizing the enduring spirit of its early pioneers.
Becker’s own journey into winemaking is equally compelling. After serving in the Air Force and attending Harvard, he transitioned to the wine industry after meeting Jack Cakebread, who encouraged his ambitions despite initial reservations. Immersed in Napa culture, Becker started at the grassroots level, finding deep connections with the land.
In 2012, Becker took ownership of Realm Cellars, which he inherited from its founders struggling to maintain the brand’s momentum. He enlisted winemaker Benoit Touquette and together they navigated the brand through tumultuous times, including a devastating warehouse fire and issues with Brettanomyces. Nevertheless, the brand surged back with acclaimed vintages leading to significant recognition and critical acclaim.
Realm’s growth continued despite natural disasters, including fires that affected production. Becker’s vision materialized in the development of the Whiskey Hotel winery and the acquisition of new vineyards, expanding Realm’s reach and reputation for high-quality wines.
The tasting concluded with impressive reviews of the 2023 wines, including the 2023 Houyi Vineyard Heavenly Questions, a 98% Cabernet Franc lauded for its complexity and aging potential, and several other standout blends highlighting the depth of Napa’s terroir and Becker’s commitment to quality.
In Becker’s words, “We stand on the shoulders of those who came before us. And now it is our turn to make our mark,” signifying a commitment to continuing the rich tradition of Napa Valley winemaking while striving for excellence.
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