For Haysley MacDonald, the founder and owner of te Pā Wines in Marlborough, New Zealand, unwinding post-harvest doesn’t involve a glass of wine in the vineyard. Instead, he opts for the ocean, donning flippers to free dive and collect kina, or sea urchins, which he has loved since childhood.
MacDonald has been freediving for nearly 40 years and considers it an integral part of his life. "You eat it straight out of the shell," he explains, describing how he prepares kina. He enjoys catching a variety of seafood, including abalone, red rock lobster, scallops, oysters, and other fish, often saying, “You name it, we’ll get it.”
Located just 100 meters from the ocean, MacDonald’s vineyard reflects his deep connection to the sea. He fondly recalls his early experiences diving with his father using makeshift tools, as they learned the skill together. Freediving is more than a hobby for MacDonald; it is an essential aspect of Māori culture. As a descendant of some of the earliest Māori settlers, he emphasizes the importance of passing these traditions onto his five children.
Freediving does come with its dangers. MacDonald recounts a frightening encounter with a shark, but he approaches diving with an instinctive understanding of the ocean’s conditions. "If you don’t respect the ocean, you’re going to get in trouble,” he asserts, highlighting the need to be aware of tides and weather patterns during dives.
Unfortunately, the environment has changed significantly over the years. MacDonald notes that the seafood he once easily gathered is now harder to find due to overfishing—requiring divers to go further and deeper to find what was once readily available. He expresses sadness about commercial fishing practices, advocating for sustainable solutions to ensure seafood remains a resource for future generations.
MacDonald sees parallels between winemaking and freediving. “With both, you must work with the elements and adapt,” he says. The synergy isn’t just philosophical; MacDonald’s wines pair beautifully with the seafood he harvests. A fresh, raw kina complements his barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, making the ocean and vineyard unite in flavor.
Through his work at te Pā Wines and his dedication to freediving, MacDonald not only indulges his passions but also strives to maintain a connection to his heritage and the ecology of the oceans around him.