It’s early summer at Tom Aiken’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Muse, in London’s Belgravia. Didier Mariotti, Veuve Clicquot’s chef de cave, presents the 11th release of La Grande Dame Rosé, which dates back to 1988. Although Mariotti’s first vintage as chef de cave will be the 2019 cuvée, he has already crafted the Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV for four years.
Mariotti pours the wine into two different glasses: a wide Veuve Clicquot tulip and a Burgundy glass, to examine the wine’s varying dimensions. The tulip showcases its structure and energy, while the Burgundy glass emphasizes its texture, volume, and fruitiness.
The northeast-facing grands crus of Verzy and Verzenay are vital to understanding La Grande Dame’s personality. Through a vertical perspective, Mariotti notes, one can appreciate its intensity and the characteristic bitterness that provides a long finish. This bitterness, often misunderstood, is vital for the wine’s overall character.
The blending of grapes for La Grande Dame has evolved due to climate change, shifting focus from pure sugar maturity to phenolic maturity, linking that bitterness to terroir expression and structure. This change is crucial as the speed of grape maturation has increased, allowing for harvests that occur 80 to 85 days after flowering—much shorter than in the past.
The blending process begins with blind tastings of about 400 to 600 wines from the current vintage, with a focus on a parcel of Pinot Noir from Clos Colin. This vineyard holds historical significance as it was chosen by Barbe-Nicole Clicquot when she created the rosé Champagne in 1818. Under Mariotti’s guidance, this plot now spans about 2 hectares, highlighting the grapes’ lightness and freshness.
Mariotti aims for a balance of flavors, with the red contribution from the Clos Colin Pinot Noir accounting for approximately 13-14% of the final blend. The blending process, which must be declared to authorities in advance, allows the wine to develop complexity over time with extended lees-aging.
Tasting Notes:
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2018 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame (12% ABV): Aromatically fresh with a light mousse, this wine displays stone fruit, pineapple, and citrus flavors, finished with a youthful vibrancy. | 94
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2018 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé (12% ABV): A vibrant deep cherry color, delivering floral notes and rich raspberry flavors. Its delicate profile is supported by a hint of phenolic bitterness, ensuring a refreshing finish. | 95