Producers in Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy, are setting their sights on promoting a new wine category called Classese. This trademarked term refers to Metodo Classico Blanc de Noirs Oltrepò Pavese, which combines the words “classico” and “Pavese.” From July 2026, wine bottles will feature Classese and Classese Rosé to help distinguish this variety from the many styles produced in the region. Riccardo Binda, the director of Oltrepò’s consorzio, emphasizes the importance of this initiative as the region boasts 15 different grape varieties and offers a diverse range of wine styles—except for fortified wines.
Binda has come back to Oltrepò after a successful tenure promoting Bolgheri wines. He views Metodo Classico Blanc de Noirs as crucial to reviving the area’s reputation. Oltrepò is particularly unique as the only Italian region focusing exclusively on Pinot Noir for its DOCG, setting it apart from similar regions like Franciacorta, Alta Langa, and Trento.
Historically, Oltrepò flourished in the 1970s, gaining recognition for its wines. However, a focus on cheap red blends led to a decline, and by 2000, the situation worsened as vineyards were abandoned. The cooperative system, where growers produce small quantities and sell at low prices, has become unsustainable. Significant declines in production can be noted, with land costs being low compared to neighboring regions.
Despite challenges, Oltrepò still has a considerable planting of Pinot Noir, amounting to 2,900 hectares out of a total of 12,000 hectares. The estimated production capability stands at 20 million bottles of DOCG Metodo Classico, though only around 700,000 bottles are currently produced. Binda is hopeful that the new Classese initiative will encourage more producers to engage.
Classese will come with strict production regulations, including hand harvesting and lengthy lees aging of 36 months for Vintage and 48 months for Riserva. With demand for Franciacorta land high and capacity maxed out, producers from there are turning towards Oltrepò for expansion opportunities. Notably, Guido Berlucchi is investing €10 million to create a DOCG Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Rosé, further emphasizing the potential of Oltrepò as a sparkling wine region.
Currently, 47 producers are making DOCG Classese. A visit to several vineyards showcased the variety and quality of wines, with standout selections from brands like Brandolini, Calatroni, and Scuropasso. Most of these producers are employing innovative techniques to achieve a terroir-driven expression of Pinot Noir, though many still rely on Champagne’s clonal material, which may limit quality.
Classese wines are praised for their fresh, vibrant characteristics, avoiding excessive oxidative notes typically seen in aged styles. The typical profile features minimal dosage and well-balanced acidity, appealing to a wide range of palates. The region’s diverse geography, with hills rising from the Po Valley, provides ideal conditions for growing Pinot Noir.
Innovative producers such as Fabio Marazzi of Cantina Scuropasso and Bruno Verdi are at the forefront of redefining Oltrepò’s wine scene, focusing on terroir-driven styles and the potential for high-quality production. Despite facing a challenging environment, the emerging Classese wines indicate a promising future for Oltrepò Pavese, attracting attention from wine lovers and producers alike.