In his latest column, Hugh Johnson reflects on the vibrant and growing English wine industry. With a focus on supporting local production, he has dedicated considerable effort to sampling English wines, primarily sparkling varieties, which he deems the country’s most successful venture so far.
Johnson expresses hope that England will soon produce wines akin to Chablis, potentially from regions like the North and South Downs, Hampshire, Berkshire, Wiltshire, or the Isle of Wight. The evolving climate is helping grapes mature, overcoming the past challenges of ripening due to cooler weather. He highlights that while achieving ripeness has improved, the timing of the vine’s growth still presents obstacles that English winemakers must navigate—especially the need for dry, sunny October weather for optimal harvesting.
Amidst these challenges, Johnson shares his appreciation for a new blend called Albion, which his son produces. Available in both white and pink, these wines have become fan favorites for their refreshing qualities. Johnson notes that England’s standout red wine is yet to be determined but suggests that it may come from varieties specifically bred for the climate.
His admiration for English wines continues as he draws comparisons between the delicate attributes of local wines and poetic themes, hinting that the region’s wines—while still developing—might yet surprise the world with their quality and complexity.
For readers intrigued by the evolution of English wine, Johnson’s insights invite further exploration into this burgeoning industry as its reputation seeks to establish itself on the global stage.