The Mornington Peninsula, located just south of Melbourne, has earned its status as Australia’s premier region for Pinot Noir, alongside its notable Chardonnay productions. Thanks to its narrow coastal strip not more than 7 km away from the calming effects of the Bass Strait, the area’s cool maritime climate plays a crucial role in creating balanced and high-acidity wines. Mike Aylward from Ocean Eight attributes the pure quality of their wines to this influence, emphasizing their strength in producing vibrant and pure expressions.
The growth of this wine region began in modern times, with the first vineyard established by Baillieu Myer in 1972 at Elgee Park. Often recognized as the pioneer, Nat and Rosalie White founded Main Ridge in 1975 after being inspired by their travels to Burgundy. They selected their site more for convenience than for climatic research, which ultimately led to a successful winery that released its first commercial wines in 1980.
Early advocates like Gary Crittenden played a significant role in expanding vineyard plantings. In 1982, Crittenden doubled the region’s vineyard area by planting 5 acres, joining other early operators like Nat White and Brian Stonier. Initially drawn to Tasmania’s climate, Crittenden realized that Mornington offered similar potential.
The region’s diverse climate, with a heat summation range of 1080-1570, is ideal for cultivating Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Interspersed among approximately 200 vineyards that span 792 hectares, each operation remains generally small-scale, fostering a micro-production environment conducive to high-quality fruit.
Soil variation further enhances the region’s unique terroir. Higher altitude vineyards, especially around Red Hill and Main Ridge, benefit from decomposed volcanic soils that retain moisture, nurturing more aromatic and high-acid wines. In contrast, lower elevation vineyards yield wines with darker fruit characteristics often requiring irrigation.
While viticulture in Mornington Peninsula is nuanced and labor-intensive, it does present challenges. Bird damage necessitates netting, which significantly drives up vineyard management costs. Additionally, weather conditions during flowering and the threat of rain during harvest frequently lead to lower yields than initially anticipated. The industry has evolved to accept limited crops, focusing on quality over quantity, with many Cabernet plantings having been phased out in favor of more reliable varieties.
A recent tasting showcased eight distinct Pinot Noirs that exemplify the potential of Mornington. Each of the featured wines demonstrated the region’s ability to produce commendable and diverse expressions.
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Kooyong Single Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir 2023: Elegant with sappy red cherry fruit, displaying a nuanced savory finish. 95/100
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Paringa Estate Pinot Noir 2022: Offers freshness and density with herbal and spicy notes, showing a rich yet finely structured palate. 94/100
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Ocean Eight Pinot Noir 2023: Bright red and black cherries with enticing floral notes, promising longevity. 94/100
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Handpicked Capella Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022: Elegantly textured with a sweet core of cherry fruit, balancing acidity beautifully. 94/100
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Crittenden Cri de Couer Pinot Noir 2022: Deep and aromatic with good structure, showcasing rich fruit flavors. 95/100
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Ten Minutes By Tractor Up The Hill Pinot Noir 2021: Delicate yet robust, with a lengthy, mineral finish indicative of its terroir. 95/100
For more in-depth exploration of these wines and their unique characteristics, you can check the linked articles.