In the context of a changing climate, the narrative around traditionally overlooked grape varieties like Carignan, Aligoté, and Palomino is shifting. Once considered mere workhorses of the vineyard, these grapes are now gaining recognition, propelled by a new generation of vintners and changing consumer preferences.
Carignan, for example, was long seen as too acidic and earthy, a perception cemented by critics like Jancis Robinson MW in 2004, who questioned its relevance in modern viticulture. However, influential wine producers like Marjorie Gallet and Jean-Philippe Padie have embraced this variety and cultivated its potential, demonstrating that quality can arise from longstanding vineyards.
Similarly, Sylvain Pataille has emerged as a champion for Aligoté, a grape once seen as a lesser alternative to Pinot Noir. Since starting his winery in 1999, Pataille has dedicated himself to showcasing the grape’s potential through meticulous vinification. His efforts culminated in the formation of “Les Aligoteurs,” an association that now includes close to 70 winemakers focused on elevating Aligoté, leading to bottles that now command high prices.
Palomino, which serves as the backbone of Sherry, has also seen its status rise. Historically, it was perceived as lacking character, but recent breakthroughs, notably by producers like Equipo Navazos, have transformed perceptions. The last decade has seen a wave of innovative, unfortified Palomino wines that challenge earlier assumptions about the grape’s quality.
This evolution raises significant questions about the preconceived hierarchies among grape varieties. Are we finally ready to reconsider the historical biases that deemed these grapes inferior? As climate change shifts growing conditions, the late-ripening, acid-retentive traits of these varieties may now be their greatest assets.
The resurgence of these once-derided grapes emphasizes the importance of exploring their potential, encouraging growers to discard outdated prejudices in favor of experimentation and innovation. The wine world may very well be entering an era where the lines between "thoroughbreds" and "workhorses" are increasingly blurred, prompting a reassessment of what constitutes quality and value in wine.