Carol Duval-Leroy and family unveil the latest vintages of their top Champagnes.
Anne Krebiehl MW reviews Duval-Leroy 2008 Femme de Champagne and Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée.
Le Champagne, ce n’est pas un luxe, c’est un plaisir. These words were a fitting start: straightforward, clear, and undeniably true. It was uttered by Carol Duval-Leroy, a testament to her resolute character. Though her remarks were brief, they carried a deep sincerity, making it evident that she valued each word. “Femme,” she explained about her prestigious cuvée, “is what I created with my husband. I take immense pride in my three children working alongside me. I am especially proud that we remain an independent, family-owned house.”
Her son Julien Duval-Leroy, who is also present and has been the president of the house since his mother’s retirement, has collaborated with her for the past 15 years. His brothers, Charles and Louis, handle sales and public relations, respectively. The event marked the introduction of two new Champagnes—the Chardonnay-dominant 2008 Femme de Champagne and the 2008 Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée, a pure Pinot Noir—held in a private, wood-paneled dining room at Restaurant Trente-Trois located in the picturesque 8th arrondissement of Paris. This event served as the launch of what the house calls the “Femme de Champagne Experience World Tour,” during which these wines are presented at distinguished tables during extraordinary meals worldwide. Joyfully, and as usual, Carol Duval-Leroy was joined by her black Labrador puppy, Sulfite, who mostly dozed peacefully under the table, aside from some playful barks.
Femme de Champagne made its debut in 1990 and was released in 1999. When I inquired about the vision behind its creation, Carol Duval-Leroy succinctly responded, “I aimed to create a bottle that resembles a jewel—exceptional.” And exceptional they truly are. Chef de cave Sandrine Logette-Jardin explained that years ago, the house decided to categorize the production of Femme de Champagne into undeclared vintages and what they term millésimes d’exception, which are aged on lees for a longer duration. The inaugural Femme de Champagne 1990 was categorized as a millésime d’exception, along with the subsequent 1995, 1996, 2002, and 2008 vintages. The Femme de Champagne produced in 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2012, and 2014 were labeled simply as Femme de Champagne Grand Cru NV and do not specify their vintage year on the back label.
The tasting commenced with the Femme de Champagne Grand Cru Brut NV in magnum format from the undeclared 2004 vintage, setting the tone with its slender and agile elegance. This was succeeded by the 1996, 2008, and 2002 Femme de Champagne, along with the 2008 Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée—all millésimes d’exception, and all served in magnum. The wines demonstrated their gastronomic prowess and paired beautifully with the contemporary classics of French cuisine prepared by Michelin-starred chef Sébastien Sanjou: an amuse-bouche featuring chickpeas and trout eggs, followed by fresh raw langoustine with spring vegetables, subtly prepared red mullet with both fresh and grilled fennel, rustic yet refined roast lamb, and a dessert that could only be described as a sublime strawberry creation. For me, the 1996 wine stood out, showcasing an electric quality and remarkable youthfulness, making it an excellent companion to the newly revealed 2008—which did not seem at all like a 16-year-old wine, definitely far from its peak expression. The 2008 Rosé de Saignée paired perfectly with the intense Maillard flavors of the pink roast lamb.
“`html
Sandrine Logette-Jardin, who has been with the house since 1991 and became cellar master in 2005, mentioned that “2008 was born of difficulties. Flowering took place during a period of cold weather; July was very hot, and August was rainy. Frequent winds helped to dry out the humidity and produce healthy grapes, which were harvested in mid-September. It is a year of great richness and great flavor, with exceptional balance and great aging potential. It is just at the beginning of its life.” She later described the 2008 Femme de Champagne as “lacy,” and I could not agree more—it is still only on the cusp of showing any development. When Duval-Leroy introduced her cellar master, she had kept it brief, only noting that Logette-Jardin “created wines with a lot of emotion.” This statement holds more significance when you consider who made it.
It is nearly impossible to discuss Femme de Champagne without mentioning its poignant origin. I pondered whether it was necessary to include this here, but the wines are too infused with Carol Duval-Leroy’s remarkable spirit of resilience. She experienced the loss of her husband Jean-Charles in 1991, when he was only 39, leaving the 36-year-old mother of three young children to uphold her promise to him “to take care of the business and keep it in the family.” They had originally conceived the idea for the new prestige cuvée that became Femme de Champagne. What she accomplished is tremendous—not just in sustaining, expanding, and modernizing her business, but also in being the first-ever female president of the Association Viticole Champenoise, an organization that historically showcased a few notable female leaders while often resisting change. When Duval-Leroy assumed control of the family firm in 1991—the same year that Sandrine Logette-Jardin joined—both women remained exceptions that challenged the longstanding norms.
Turning back to the wines, their consistent style was notably impressive. Regardless of the varying vintages, they all presented a sense of directness and immediacy, free from any clutter or embellishments, exuding complete poise—much like Mme Duval-Leroy herself.
Restaurant Trente-Trois, Paris; June 13, 2024
“`
Femme de Champagne Grand Cru NV (12% ABV; magnum)
This wine is primarily from the (undeclared) 2000 vintage, featuring a composition of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir. A quarter of the base wines underwent fermentation and aging in barrique, and the bottle was recently disgorged with a dosage of 6g/l.
The wine presents a golden hue with a slight hint of honey on the nose, complemented by subtle notes of toasted cumin and toasted baguette. The brightness is enhanced by a very fine mousse, showcasing the Chardonnay’s dominant character. Light hints of grilled wheat bread linger in the background, contributing to the wine’s understated yet vibrant presence, characterized by agility and tension. | 93
1996 Femme de Champagne (12% ABV; magnum)
A mixture of 79% Chardonnay sourced from Chouilly, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, and Cramant, combined with 21% Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Aÿ. Only 7% of the base wines underwent fermentation in oak, and the wine was disgorged in June 2022 with a dosage of 4g/l.
On the nose, dried lemon rind is prominent, accompanied by a subtle trace of fresh white field mushroom, which appears to be the sole indication of any evolution, followed by subdued lemon notes reminiscent of Genoese sponge that suggest richness. It is only after some air contact that a hint of short-crust richness begins to reveal itself. The palate displays immediate energy, characterized by tautness and vividness, still radiating with exquisite and almost luminous freshness. Everything is encompassed in a statuesque and sleek framework that possesses a striking directness and purity, culminating in a finish marked by profound chalky and mouthwatering saltiness. What an impressive wine! | 97
2008 Femme de Champagne (12% ABV; magnum)
This consists of 74% Chardonnay from midslope parcels in Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, and Cramant, paired with 26% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Bouzy, and Ambonnay; disgorged in June 2023 with a dosage of 5g/l.
“`html
The first scent has a hint of a sea breeze, followed by green apple with touches of chervil that create an incredibly fresh and aromatic nose. The taste feels as if it is gently drifting on a cloud of delicately fine, airy mousse, giving a sensation of silk-chiffon lightness. With its slenderness, elegance, and balance, it still showcases remarkable youth and an elegance that seems effortless. Yet it possesses a clear focus. This wine may be a bit young, but it certainly has a bright future ahead! Such clarity and accuracy. Simply beautiful. | 96
2002 Femme de Champagne (12.5% ABV; magnum)
Composed of 95% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, along with 5% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay; 20% of the base wines underwent fermentation in oak. Disgorged in 2023, with no dosage.
Logette-Jardin remarked that the “exceptionally high ripeness in 2002 led to concentrated, ripe grapes of outstanding quality.” Therefore, it was decided to leave the wine without any dosage.
“`
The aroma of this golden wine starts off quite reserved, taking its time to unveil notes of oyster shell along with the delicate spice of English seed cake, which evolves into a hint of Christmas spice as the wine warms up. It also hints at the ripe flesh of Golden Delicious apples, accompanied by a breath of ozone. On the palate, bold golden sultana is clearly defined and energized by the freshness of dried lemon peel. The zero dosage reveals an impressively firm structure that channels the fruit’s richness in a sleek, salty direction, marked as much by salinity as by the phenolics of mirabelle skin. This is a bold, no-nonsense wine that is distinctly suited to gastronomy. | 94
2008 Femme de Champagne Rosé de Saignée (12% ABV; magnum)
This wine, made purely from Pinot Noir sourced from Bouzy vines aged between 35 and 45 years, underwent an 18-hour maceration before pressing and was disgorged in early 2024, with a dosage of 3g/l.
Initially, the nose presents fragrant notes of blossom honey and rose-filled potpourri in this deeply colored, copper-hued wine. It is followed by red fruit reminiscent of ripe, luscious berries and cherries in an equal blend, projecting promises of richness and generosity. However, the palate quickly brings everything into sharp focus with its exquisite freshness and vigor, perfectly fitting into the Femme de Champagne portfolio despite its undeniable concentration and vinous depth. There’s a stimulating contrast between the rich, saignée “Pinot-ness” and the fine, cooling, chalky undercurrents; between the opulence of the aroma and the vibrant freshness of the palate. An exceptionally gastronomic wine, boasting a refined, creamy mousse. Bravo! | 94