The Route des Grands Crus in Burgundy, renowned for its prestigious vineyards, overlooks several lesser-known yet charming villages that produce delightful wines. Among these are Monthélie, Auxey-Duresses, and St-Romain, collectively forming an area described as "behind the hill" thanks to their tucked-away locations.
Monthélie is characterized by its scenic slopes filled with vineyards that extend from the Côte de Volnay into the valley known as Combe Danay. This village boasts notable premier crus, specifically Sur la Velle and Champs Fuillots, which are situated near the border with Volnay. While long dominated by traditional estates, recent years have seen the emergence of innovative producers. Some noteworthy names include Domaine Eric de Suremain and Domaine Changarnier, both known for their careful winemaking practices.
In Auxey-Duresses, the village shares its name with the vineyard Les Duresses, which has become synonymous with quality. The area is dotted with premier cru vineyards that thrive due to its proximity to Meursault, making it a critical area for producing white wines. Domaine Lafouge has a solid reputation for offering great value, while the arrival of Domaine Pierre Vincent adds excitement with its focus on old vines.
Moving to St-Romain, this village presents a distinct character shaped by its elevation and the uniqueness of its vineyards. Although St-Romain does not have any premier cru sites, it offers an array of exciting wines. Notable producers here include Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson and Domaine de Chassorney, both focused on organic practices.
The wines from these villages are increasingly gaining recognition for their improved quality. The reds from Monthélie are now known for their supple texture and rich fruit flavors, while Auxey’s reds bring plummy elements, and St-Romain’s whites showcase a new level of depth and substance compared to decades past. With the impact of global warming, the villages "behind the hill" are becoming emerging hotspots for those seeking value Burgundy.