Born in Denmark and raised on his family’s estate in Provence, Morten Hallgren seemed destined to return to winemaking there after studying viticulture and oenology in Montpellier and completing a harvest at Cos d’Estournel. But when the family property was sold, he set out elsewhere, making wine in Texas Hill Country before moving to North Carolina’s Biltmore Estate. In time, the Finger Lakes’ Dr Konstantin Frank Winery brought him in to lead its white-wine program.
After six vintages there, Hallgren left in 2005 to establish Ravines Wine Cellars. He began with a 17-acre parcel on Keuka Lake’s eastern slopes, then added vineyards and a winery, now known as Limestone Springs. Ravines has since grown to 130 acres of estate vineyards, and Hallgren also manages Argetsinger Vineyard.
The winery makes more than Riesling: its range includes Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux blends, and Pinot Noir. But Riesling became central to Hallgren’s work. From the beginning, he saw in the wines a balance and structure that invited ageing, even when dry Riesling was less common in the region.
For the winery’s 20th anniversary in June 2025, Hallgren and his wife, Lisa, presented a retrospective of Ravines wines. The tasting showed how the wines evolve over time while retaining a clear sense of site and vintage.
Dry Riesling vineyards
Ravines’ dry Rieslings come from three sites on Seneca Lake.
Limestone Springs, formerly White Springs, sits near Geneva, set back from the lake. Its 59 acres have Honeoye loam over limestone, an eastern exposure, and a pronounced slope. Many of the vines are relatively old.
About 20 miles farther south, 16 Falls Vineyard lies near Ovid, close to the lake’s deepest point. Its acidic shalestone soils contain significant clay. Much of the 46-acre vineyard is trained on a lyre trellis, which increases the vines’ leaf area and sun exposure to encourage ripening.
Argetsinger Vineyard, managed by Ravines, is considered the estate’s standout site. Planted in the 1980s on Seneca Lake’s steep southeastern side, it has shallow, rocky, well-drained gravel-over-limestone soils. Its Rieslings have consistently shown particular focus, finesse, and precision.
Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling
All wines below are dry unless noted, and are fermented spontaneously with ambient yeasts.
- 2003 — 91: Fully mature, with petrol, stone fruit, lime, high acidity, and a long, dry finish.
- 2004 — 93: Ripe and forward, with fresh fruit, developed nuances, and a broad, layered palate.
- 2005 — 94: Concentrated and persistent, combining stone fruit, lime, and caramel with a firm mineral core.
- 2006 — 85: Short on fruit and precision, with a tart, unforgiving palate.
- 2007 — 87: Floral and perfumed, though fruit-shy and less convincing through the finish.
- 2008 — 89: Firm and concentrated, with stony mineral character, lime, and white flowers.
- 2009 — 90: Ripe, open, and generous, with juicy lime and custard. It retains 8–9g/l of residual sugar, now largely integrated.
- 2010 — 90: Fresh and juicy, with citrus, custard, yellow plum, and mineral notes.
- 2011 — 87: Open and evolved, with crispness and a medium-length finish, but less concentration than most.
- 2012 — 89: Fresh and juicy, with stone, kaffir lime, curry leaf, white flowers, and a medium finish.
- 2013 — 87: Ripe yet crisp and ready to drink, though with limited mid-palate concentration.
- 2014 — 86: Fully mature, with petrol, oil, wet leaves, and citrus pith.
- 2015 — 92: Direct, nervy, and spicy, with a stony, long finish.
- 2016 — 90: Generous yet crisp, offering lime, green plum, and green tea.
- 2017 — 91: Juicy and balanced, with spice, stone, and a delicate mineral finish.
- 2018 — 92: Dense and concentrated, with citrus, green plum, and spice; it has years ahead of it.
- 2019 — 92+: Focused and mineral, with wet stone, star fruit, lemon, and a long finish.
- 2020 — 93+: Concentrated and complex, with a crisp finish and strong potential to develop.
Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling, Argetsinger Vineyard
- 2007 — 89: Developed, with yellow plum, lime, and petrol, finishing crisp and clean.
- 2008 — 95: Electric and expressive, with lemon-lime fruit, tension, and a long finish.
- 2009 — 93: Subtle and layered, with lemon, yellow plum, mineral notes, and a lifted, dry finish.
- 2010 — 94+: Refined and generous, with lime zest, blossom, and a persistent mineral thread.
- 2011 — 91: Fresh and poised, though the finish fades relatively quickly.
- 2012 — 95: Complex and layered, with jasmine, chamomile, kaffir lime, and spice; it has plenty of time to evolve.
- 2014 — 94+: More concentrated and less developed than the standard dry Riesling from the same vintage, with lemon, jasmine, and chalk.
- 2015 — 92: Stony and energetic, with citrus, blackcurrant bud, and a lightly tart finish.
- 2016 — 91+: Broader and more mature, with earth, spice, and a crisp finish.
- 2017 — 94: Mineral-driven and substantial, with wet stone, green tea, lime pith, and a sustained finish.
- 2019 — 95: Still youthful and tightly packed, with concentrated lime and mineral character and a long finish. It is likely to benefit from time.
Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling, Limestone Springs
- 2011 — 91: Layered and chalky, with lemon custard, graham cracker, integrated acidity, and mature aromas.
- 2014 — 90: Delicate and lightly off-dry, balanced by acidity and a spicy core.
- 2015 — 90: Light-bodied but concentrated, with mineral notes, green apple, green pea, and parsley.
- 2016 — 90: Austere and stony, lifted by jasmine and chamomile, with a lean finish.
- 2017 — 91+: Youthful and generous, with lemon, mineral character, and enough acidity to balance its 4g/l of residual sugar.
- 2020 — 92: Dense and flinty, with ripe citrus and a crisp, firm finish; it should gain with time.
Other highlights
- 2012 Cabernet Franc — 92: Tight and complex, with forest berries, plum, dried herbs, and mineral character.
- 2013 Cabernet Franc — 94: Concentrated and persistent, showing dark fruit, herbs, black tea, and mineral notes.
- 2017 Cabernet Franc — 93: Broad and delicious now, with a concentrated core likely to develop more savoury, earthy notes.