Lasse Peder Nielsen, partner and general manager at Copenhagen’s two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Koan, has spent more than 15 years in hospitality. His career has included leadership roles at acclaimed Scandinavian restaurants, and at Koan he helps bring together Nordic precision and contemporary Asian cuisine.
A first taste of great Champagne
Nielsen’s interest in wine took off at his first job in Copenhagen, where he began working at 18. After noticing his enthusiasm, the restaurant’s owner, Henrik Laszlo, sat with him after a busy service and answered his questions about wine and Champagne. He then opened two bottles from the exceptional 1996 vintage: Dom Pérignon and Salon.
Nielsen stayed at the restaurant for five years, eventually managing both the establishment and its wine list.
Wines and pairings
German Riesling is his everyday choice, with Peter Jakob Kühn among his favourite producers. He says he has not bought wine at a Danish supermarket in at least a decade.
His dream pairing is Château d’Yquem with foie gras terrine, apricot jam and toasted brioche. At Koan, one standout match is gamasot rice with cured squid, Danish fjord shrimp, trout roe, preserved citrus and toasted beech nuts, paired with Stella Mary, a Danish sparkling Pinot Noir from Helle and Jacob Stokkebye on the island of Fyn.
After work, he keeps things simple: rye bread with cold cuts or cheese, alongside any Champagne left over from the restaurant. One list highlight is Krug Clos du Mesnil by the glass.
Danish wines that surprise
Nielsen enjoys introducing guests to wines from Danish producer Njord, located west of Copenhagen. Winemaker Sune Albertsen, he says, has found a compelling approach to Pinot Noir Précoce in Denmark. The wines have fooled Nielsen in blind tastings, making them a favourite choice for surprise pours at Koan.
When ordering in a restaurant, Nielsen generally chooses according to the food, though Gewürztraminer is an exception: he has never warmed to the variety, including its Alsatian expressions.
Regions to explore
Champagne remains the region he is most excited about—and one he could drink at any time of day. For value, he points to Switzerland’s Valais and Vaud, along with Jurançon in southern France. He highlights younger producers Jordi Renard of Maison Vulpin in Vaud and Lucas Mandonia in Valais.
When visiting Champagne, Nielsen likes to stay in Reims and dine at Brasserie Le Jardin.