Juicy pineapple, dried mango, and marmalade garnished with sweet spices and chamomile create an enticing picture of Tokaji Aszú, a renowned sweet wine from Hungary. A recent tasting of Royal Tokaji’s forthcoming 2019 vintage showcased the enchanting diversity of flavors and terroirs that this wine offers.
Co-founded by esteemed wine author Hugh Johnson, Royal Tokaji emphasizes a single-vineyard approach in crafting both their dry white and Tokaji Aszú varieties. The much-anticipated 2019 release includes single-vineyard selections from the estate’s plots in Birsalmás, Nyulászó, Szt. Tamás, Betsek, and Mézes Mály.
The 2019 vintage uniquely follows a succession of consecutive releases since 2016, with the exception of Birsalmás, which underwent replanting. Each tasting of the recent vintages revealed nuanced expressions that reflected the vineyard’s distinct characteristics—from mineral to luscious profiles.
Rain in mid-September, following a dry summer, spurred the rapid onset of noble rot, a critical factor for the production of Aszú. Although late rains limited the harvesting window, the resulting fruit was described as ‘rich and clean.’
Royal Tokaji’s winemaking process further enriches the Aszú experience. The harvested aszú berries undergo a maceration process in a base of grape must, allowing the extraction of the botrytis flavors and sugars, followed by fermentation in Hungarian oak barrels. This method has been in place since 2017, aiming to add complexity to the wine.
Among the 2019 offerings, the Nyulászó emerged as a standout, showcasing layered complexity and a seamless mouthfeel. The Szt. Tamás offered fragrant dried fruit aromas with unexpected zesty freshness. For those seeking intense spice and purity, the Betsek proved delightful.
Looking forward, wine experts remain curious about how climate conditions, particularly extreme heat, will affect future harvests, notably the high temperatures forecast for 2026. Nonetheless, Royal Tokaji plans to adapt and optimize vineyard practices according to nature’s offerings, maintaining their commitment to producing exceptional wines.
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