Vinho Verde: Pleasure beyond summer
As summer approaches, I had the opportunity to taste a remarkable selection of Vinho Verde wines, showcasing the region’s rich diversity of terroirs, grape varieties, and styles. My exploration included a tasting session held in Decanter’s Tasting Suite, where the dynamic shift in Vinho Verde’s production was clear.
Over the last decade, Vinho Verde has undergone significant evolution. A new breed of passionate producers is working hard to revive traditional methods and styles, moving away from the well-known young, spritzy wines.
Looking forward to the cooler months, I recommend trying bottles like the Quinta de Linhares Grande Reserva Avesso 2016, celebrated for its classic characteristics and longevity; Aveleda’s Parcela do Roseiral 2024, a single-vineyard Alvarinho that has been partially oak-fermented; and Constantino Ramos’ Zafirah 2024, which offers a lively and refined experience with remarkable red qualities.
These selections highlight the texture, nuance, and depth of Vinho Verde wines, ensuring they remain a delightful choice beyond the summer season.
Clemens Busch, but in Poland
In June, I visited Poznań for the annual Polish wine competition and festival, Polskie Korki, founded by restaurateur Lechosław Olszewski. This year marked its 10th anniversary, and I had the privilege to meet renowned Mosel winemaker Clemens Busch, who was there to judge wines and conduct a masterclass for local producers. Many attendees are eager to engage in low-intervention winemaking, showcasing a growing interest in natural wine practices.
Among the wines I tasted was Busch’s Ortswein Riesling vom grauen Schiefer 2024, which offered notes of honeyed elderflower and a spiced palate. Even more captivating was the Marienburg GG 2024, a complex blend of wild herbs, lemon oil, and nectarine, exhibiting a bright yet polished profile. The Marienburg Fahrlay-Terrassen GG 2020 stood out for its waxy texture and zesty freshness. Finally, the age-worthy 2011 Marienburg Falkenlay GG presented an explosion of tropical flavors, nutty nuances, and a long, spicy finish.
20 years of Palladius
Eben Sadie recently reflected on the 24 years of crafting his signature white blend, Palladius, during a vertical tasting of its vintages. Inspired by French and Spanish wines, Sadie aimed to create a blend that encapsulates the complex geology of the Swartland region.
Beginning with the inaugural vintage in 2002, which caused quite a stir, he noted how it took time for critics to appreciate the boldness of his approach. The current release, 2023 (96pts, £96), showcases a blend of 13 varieties that exhibit thrilling purity and freshness.
The evolution of Palladius is evident through the years, with key innovations introduced in vintages like the 2009, which saw the addition of Semillon, and the 2013, marking the shift to fermenting in ceramic and concrete. Each vintage tells a story of meticulous crafting and a dedication to quality.
The father of Greek wine (in the UK)
Steve Daniel has played an instrumental role in making Greek wines mainstream in the UK. His efforts at Oddbins and now at Hallgarten & Novum have championed numerous Greek varieties. Recently, he organized a tasting to showcase an impressive portfolio of Greek wines at The Swan at Shakespeare’s Globe, surrounded by the sunny London weather.
The tasting featured sought-after varietals like Assyrtiko and Xinomavro, alongside new exciting offerings like Vidiano, a Cretan grape described as “the next big thing.” Two standout wines included Oenops, Vidiano 2024, rich with stone fruit, and Idaia Winery’s Ocean Vidiano 2025, noted for its refreshing characteristics.
Fruity and Franc
In the thick of summer, I had the chance to indulge in two distinct reds across different settings. First, I enjoyed Viña Sol Fruity Red 2025, a refreshing Spanish blend that brought a quenching treat during a backyard picnic.
Then, more formally, I attended a gathering in London’s Vintners Hall with winemakers from Iconic Wineries of British Columbia. Here, Mission Hill Family Estate’s Terroir Collection Cabernet Franc 2022 stole the spotlight with its smooth, vibrant profile, earning a Silver medal at the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards.
These varied experiences highlighted the exciting diversity of wines available today and the growing appreciation for unique varietals across global wine regions.