Jamie Goode visits the vineyards of Champagne Perrier-Jouët, where the estate has begun implementing regenerative viticulture practices. After five years of trials, 33 out of their 65 hectares are now farmed regeneratively, with the aim of achieving 100% by 2030. Excitingly, they are already noticing changes in the taste of their base wines.
During a mid-April visit to their vineyard in Ambonnay, Goode observes that unlike other plots affected by spring frost, these vineyards are thriving with life. Multispecies cover crops, such as mustard flowers and broad beans, planted in autumn have contributed to the vibrancy of the area.
The regenerative farming project began in 2021, and the success of the initial four hectares led to the expansion to 33 hectares. The scientific trials are methodologically precise, allowing careful measurement of the outcomes. They utilize two regenerative treatments: a biomass cover crop and a flowering crop, both of which support soil health and biodiversity.
The biomass cover crop includes plants like fava beans and clover, which help fix nitrogen and can release organic material back into the soil upon decaying. This approach has led to improved soil structure and increased yields. The flowering cover crop, featuring species such as turnip and mustard, is rotated every three years to further enhance biodiversity.
As results from the trials continue to come in, both treatments have positively impacted yields—around a 20% increase—and quality has also improved. There’s a notable difference in the wines produced from these regenerative vineyards, with taste profiles highlighting freshness and complexity that differ from the control plots.
Winemaking manager Séverine Frerson has noted these differences in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The control wines, while fruity, do not exhibit the same complexity or freshness as those from the regenerative plots. The goal is to showcase that regenerative practices can lead to better wines, inspiring neighboring growers to adopt similar methods.
Perrier-Jouët’s commitment to biodiversity extends beyond vine management, as they are also engaged in vitiforestry projects—planting diverse species alongside vineyards to create a more resilient ecosystem.
The transition to regenerative viticulture is about more than just technical improvements; it’s a vision for the future of Champagne, where healthy soils support vibrant vines, and the quality of wine reflects this new, sustainable approach.