Fresh, breezy Schiava caught my attention on a recent trip to the small mountainous region of Alto Adige in northern Italy. Despite its past reputation for poor-quality mass-market versions from the 1980s, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of Schiava wines tasted at the Alto Adige Wine Summit—30 out of the 40 I sampled warranted a place in my fridge.
Today, the Schiava grape (also known as Vernatsch) has seen a decline in vineyard area, dropping from 69% in 1970 to just 9% currently. It is now primarily cultivated in the DOCs of Lago di Caldaro, Santa Maddalena, and Meranese in Merano. The optimal growing conditions in picturesque locations at altitudes of 300–700 meters create light-bodied Alpine reds with a modest alcohol content between 11-12.5%, which can be enjoyed chilled.
Some of the most delightful Schiava wines spring from the dolomitic soils around Lake Caldero, characterized by fresh raspberry and redcurrant flavors, with varying degrees of tannin texture. Notable examples include Tenuta Ritterhof’s Kalterersee Classico Superiore Schiava and the light 2024 vintage from Ignaz Niedrist, along with aromatic selections from other cooperatives in the region.
The treatment of Schiava varies by soil type, with those from the sandy Meranese DOC presenting a crisp, herbal profile. The majority of vineyards in Alto Adige—96% of total production—is designated DOC, underscoring a commitment to quality.
In contrast, the producers in the Santa Maddalena DOC embrace Schiava, having formed the first wine consortium in Italy in 1923. Here, the terroir—high in iron and silica—yields wines with bright, morello cherry notes and an approachable structure. The Classico section produces wines rich in flavor and integral to the 160ha DOC that have been crafted and refined over centuries.
A unique aspect of Santa Maddalena wines is the traditional co-planting of Schiava with Lagrein, a variety that, while slow to ripen, adds complexity to blends and can sometimes overshadow the more delicate Schiava. Yet Lagrein, now recognized as one of Alto Adige’s noble varieties, showcases its own distinct character when cultivated in the region’s deep fertile soils, particularly in the Bolzano basin.
Hannes Rottensteiner, a third-generation wine producer, emphasizes the importance of both indigenous varieties, noting the tendency of Alto Adige to shift toward whites. He cultivates Schiava and Lagrein in biodynamic conditions, appreciating their qualities and challenges, such as the potential for low acidity and thin-skinned berries that can be susceptible to humidity.
Lagrein has experienced a renaissance thanks to dedicated producers who have revived its status, creating rich, full-bodied wines with chocolate and forest fruit notes, complemented by the right maturation techniques. The 2022 vintage from Rottensteiner, for instance, demonstrates a smooth profile; while other producers continue to explore and elevate Lagrein’s reputation, showing promise for aging and fine dining pairings.
In conclusion, while Alto Adige is renowned for its whites, Schiava and Lagrein embody the spirit of this Alpine region, offering unique expressions: Lagrein has warmth for winter, while Schiava delivers refreshing alpine finesse, showcasing a remarkable evolution of these indigenous reds.