Most wine aficionados dream of having a cellar large enough to lose a few treasured bottles in. Paul Bocuse, the celebrated Lyonnais chef and national icon of France, achieved just that—unintentionally hiding 18 bottles of Ruinart 1926 in a forgotten corner of his restaurant’s cellar. These bottles, purchased to mark the year of Bocuse’s birth, remained undiscovered until after his passing in 2018.
The story surrounding the tasting of these historic wines carries a sense of sadness, notably because it was inspired by Fréderic Panaïotis, Ruinart’s Chef de Cave, who tragically died in 2025. Panaïotis had shared two bottles with Bocuse and noted the "remarkable" quality of the wine, highlighting flavors of ripe fruit, apricot, and candied citrus, a sentiment echoed by the new Chef de Cave, Caroline Fiot.
The discovery of these 1926 bottles provided a significant boon to Ruinart, whose library of older vintages was somewhat lacking. Fiot conveyed that this vintage was one of their oldest, noting that after WWII, much of their wine stock had been depleted. The 1926 was particularly special, as the concept of "prestige" Champagnes had yet to emerge during this period.
In an extraordinary vertical tasting, Fiot and a small group sampled Ruinart vintages from 2016 back to 1926, with the 1926 and 1956 impressing tasters with their vibrancy. Most of the wines were fresh disgorgements, maintaining an exhilarating quality as the group savored each sip.
However, not all bottles survived the passage of time unscathed; some vintages like the 1966 had succumbed to oxidation. Fiot felt a palpable tension as she prepared to open the 1926, wondering aloud if it would present a pop—a question that went unanswered as the pressure had diminished over the decades. Nevertheless, the wine was still alive, delivering a nuanced profile characterized by sherry-like aromas that defied expectations.
Ultimately, the tasting proved that age and quality significantly influence the drinking experience. While the current release from 2016 has meaningful potential, it clearly has big shoes to fill in the legacy left behind by its venerable predecessors. The tasting of these ancient yet exquisite wines showcased the exceptional quality of Ruinart, encouraging enthusiasts to seek out these rare experiences.