In Search of the Soul of St-Emilion
Colin Gent MW takes us on a journey through St-Emilion, often hailed as "The Burgundy of Bordeaux," characterized by its diverse terroirs and vibrant wine culture.
Despite the prevailing narrative that Bordeaux is facing a crisis with waning interest in its wines, St-Emilion continues to draw over a million visitors annually. Tourists swarm the town, captivated by its medieval charm and reputation for quality wine. Opinions on St-Emilion vary widely—marketers point to its strong brand while romantics argue it possesses a unique soul. Conversely, critics highlight its extravagant wine prices and tumultuous internal politics.
St-Emilion, with 5,500 hectares, is not only Bordeaux’s largest communal appellation but also the largest in France. This vast size complicates generalizations, as the region encompasses a patchwork of terroirs and around 650 estates, producing 30 million bottles of wine each year. Engaging with local producers often results in ambiguous answers about the essence of St-Emilion, reflecting its rich diversity.
Visitors boost the local economy, with 70% of wines sold domestically. While roughly 55% of grand cru classé wines are exported, many fine wine producers are still thriving, with growth in affordable luxury wines offering additional value to both consumers and producers. The cooperative plays a significant role in maintaining the market, selling millions of bottles that support many smaller growers.
However, concerns about inventory build-up and potential financial instability loom over the higher echelons of St-Emilion’s wine scene. Some high-profile estates may have overextended themselves during prosperous years, leading to current challenges. The crowded category of grand cru classé wines also generates confusion about their true distinctions.
Stylistic challenges have also emerged over the last three decades. The quest for higher quality has led many producers to adopt extreme winemaking techniques inspired by influential figures. This resulted in wines that, while impressively concentrated, often verged on excess. As climates warm, a focus on Merlot, typically predominant in St-Emilion, is coupled with a growing interest in Cabernet Franc. Each grape presents its own set of viticultural challenges.
Producers have embraced innovative winemaking practices. Cold soaking and careful fermentation are now prioritized to preserve the wine’s aromatic integrity. The movement towards balance and drinkability reflects a shift in winemaking philosophy, contrasting the previous focus on richness and power.
Understanding the terroir of St-Emilion has evolved significantly. Knowledge from experts like Professor Kees van Leeuwen has demystified the region’s complexities, showcasing ten distinct terroirs. These range from the limestone plateau, which encourages structure and minerality, to varying slopes and plains that influence growing conditions.
The region’s classification system remains a controversial topic, with historical changes prompting debates on its validity. Shifts from insider evaluations to independent assessments created new criteria focused on wine quality and estate prestige. This transformation aimed to clarify but has also faced criticism regarding its perceived fairness and accuracy.
As St-Emilion’s influence continues to grow within Bordeaux and beyond, its unique character embodies both a rich history and a modern evolution. The dialogue between tradition and innovation shapes its future, with a collective aim for quality and approachability making St-Emilion a dynamic player on the global wine stage.
For further details, visit the Bordeaux section of World of Fine Wine.