Franco Massolino recently hosted an impressive vertical tasting of his family’s flagship wine, Vigna Rionda, featuring twelve vintages from 1996 to 2019. With an innovative approach, the tasting was divided into four themes: warm years, classic years, great vintages, and recent releases.
As the fourth generation of the Massolino family, Franco highlighted the significance of Vigna Rionda, which is a cru in Barolo renowned for its exceptional wines. His great-grandfather, Giovanni, established the estate in 1896, blending agriculture with viticulture. His son, Giuseppe, contributed to the region’s wine reputation by founding the Barolo and Barbaresco Consorzio in 1934 and initiating bottling under the Massolino brand in 1947.
The family’s acquisition of Vigna Rionda in 1956 was termed a "conquest," a testament to its historical significance in producing high-quality wines. Giuseppe’s strategic land exchanges eventually led Massolino to control nearly one-third of this renowned cru.
Vigna Rionda, situated on Serralunga’s western ridge, offers a unique terroir characterized by clay marl and a high percentage of active limestone, favoring the production of refined Nebbiolo. Franco explained how changes in weather patterns have influenced their harvest strategies, leading to earlier picking dates and more careful canopy management in response to climate volatility.
The tasting commenced with the warm vintages, showcasing wines from years considered exceptional for their richness and fruit concentration. This included the 1997, 2000, and 2011 vintages, which exhibited the growing influences of global warming on vineyard practices. In contrast, the “classic” vintages were defined by ideal growing conditions, emphasizing nuances and aging potential, featuring years like 2001, 2004, and 2006.
The great vintages, specifically the celebrated 2010 and the now iconic 2016, demonstrated the estate’s consistency in crafting wines that reflect their terroir’s qualities. Finally, recent releases (2014, 2017, and 2019) highlighted ongoing stylistic evolution while maintaining the essence of traditional Barolo.
Franco Massolino and his team employ traditional vinification methods, favoring native yeasts and long aging in large Slavonian oak barrels, which allows for balanced development without overshadowing the innate characteristics of Nebbiolo. This adherence to traditional winemaking, despite the explorations of modern styles in the past, emphasizes the family’s pride in their wine identity.
The tasting illustrated a deep connection to both the land and heritage, showcasing a remarkable journey through the ages of Barolo.