2024 Burgundy Tasting Notes: Côte de Beaune—Volnay
Sarah Marsh MW provides a detailed exploration of the Burgundy vintage of 2024, focusing on Volnay producers.
DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE
At Domaine Michel Lafarge, the new generation has taken charge, with Frédéric’s children now working alongside him. Clotilde, preferring vineyard work, Eleanor managing the office, and Maxime, who switched from finance in Paris, began his journey at the domaine in 2023.
Their vineyard management includes sustainable practices, such as horse plowing in Caillerets, where Clotilde emphasizes the superior soil conditions. Despite a challenging year, they managed to maintain effective spraying schedules, resulting in average yields of 10hl/ha for regional reds and 12-13hl/ha for Volnay.
Harvest began on September 10, and despite low yields, they successfully produced distinctive premiers crus wines. Frédéric noted the phenolic maturity of the grapes, which were small but concentrated. Their processing methods remain consistent, employing gentle extraction techniques to ensure quality.
Low yields for the whites resulted from mildew impact on their Meursault, and the wines underwent meticulous barrel fermentation to enhance flavor complexity.
Clotilde describes their vintage: “The reds are pleasant to taste now, making them accessible after bottling," while Maxime notes the balancing tension and acidity of the wines, leading to harmonious flavors.
Key Tasting Notes:
- Beaune Premier Cru Les Aigrots: Floral aroma with a crisp texture; vibrant finish. (91-92)
- Beaune Premier Cru Grèves: Intense and concentrated with lovely silky texture. (93)
- Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets: Intense fruit-driven profile, elegant with a lengthy finish. (95)
- Volnay Premier Cru Clos du Château des Ducs: Richer and tannic with exotic aromatics. (95)
- Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Chênes: Sumptuous texture with distinct terroir expression. (94-95)
- Volnay Premier Cru Pitures: Terse, cherry-kernel notes; age-worthy. (92-93)
DOMAINE HUBERT DE MONTILLE
Brian Sieve recounts his challenges during the growing season where rapid ripening posed a risk. He opted for early harvesting beginning September 9 to ensure acidity and quality. Sieve’s techniques involve a blend of traditional and modern practices, leading to bright, acidic wines that respect the terroir.
Key Tasting Notes:
- Bourgogne Clos de la Château: Intense and sapid with distinctive Puligny salinity. (86-87)
- Beaune Premier Cru Les Aigrots: Full-bodied and savory, showcasing the terroir’s depth. (91)
- Beaune Premier Cru Sur Les Grèves: Energetic and focused with a saline finish. (93-94)
- Meursault Premier Cru Porusots: Savory and dense with bold character. (92-93)
- Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Caillerets: Compact and mineral-driven with a prolonged finish. (96)
Reds from Montille showcase substance with varying techniques. The prominence of whole-bunch fermentation yields wines reflecting elegance and terroir integrity, with Sieve emphasizing transparency over excessive manipulation.
This vintage offers an exciting array of flavorful possibilities across both red and white varietals, confirming Volnay’s stature in Burgundy wine production.
For further details on tasting notes and producers, please refer to the full articles on World of Fine Wine.