German wine has seen a remarkable rise in reputation over the past decade, largely due to the impact of climate change, which has allowed many regions to flourish, particularly for Spätburgunder, or Pinot Noir. However, this warming trend is a double-edged sword, introducing climate extremes that can threaten the best vineyard sites in certain vintages.
The recent VDP Grosses Gewächs tasting held in Wiesbaden showcased exceptional Spätburgunders from Germany’s top vineyards. The VDP, or Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, features 198 member producers, with its classification of vineyards based on terroir. They categorize their vineyards into four levels, with the top two—VDP Grosse Lage (equivalent to Grand Cru) and VDP Erste Lage (premier cru)—permitted to display vineyard names on their labels. The Grosses Gewächs (GG) wines, which are dry and produced from these top classifications, were the focus of the tasting.
The organization of the tasting was outstanding, allowing participants to choose from over 400 wines which came arranged by region and vineyard site. The attentive service made the note-taking process straightforward.
AHR Region Highlights
- Deutzerhof Ahrweiler Spätburgunder ECK 2024: Structured with savory spice, sweet raspberry, and cherry fruit. Rating: 93/100.
- Meyer-Näkel Ahrweiler Spätburgunder SILBERBERG 2024: Smoky nose with vibrant berry fruits, drawing in a taut palate. Rating: 95/100.
- Jean Stodden Ahrweiler Spätburgunder ROSENTHAL 2024: Features floral cherry notes coupled with savory spice, fresh and expressive. Rating: 94/100.
SACHSEN Region Highlights
- Schloss Proschwitz-Prinz zur Lippe Rottewitz Spätburgunder SCHLOSS PROSCHWITZ 2023: Compact, berry-rich palate with lovely tension. Rating: 94/100.
FRANKEN Region Highlights
- Rudolf Fürst Klingenberg Spätburgunder SCHLOSSBERG 2024: Displays a green herbal edge, compact berry fruits. Rating: 94/100.
- Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg Grossheubach Spätburgunder BISCHOFSBERG 2024: Bright and savory with a sappy twist. Rating: 92/100.
RHEINGAU Region Highlights
- August Kesseler Assmannshausen Spätburgunder HÖLLENBERG 2024: Wonderful aromatics, delicate cherries, with exquisite balance. Rating: 96/100.
- Krone Assmannshausen Spätburgunder HÖLLENBERG 2023: Nice tension and structure, layered elegance. Rating: 95/100.
RHEINHESSEN Region Highlights
- J. Neus Ingelheim Spätburgunder PARES 2024: Silky, generous with sweet fruit core. Rating: 95/100.
- Kühling-Gillot Oppenheim Spätburgunder KREUZ 2024: Juicy and bright, with layered spice. Rating: 91/100.
PFALZ Region Highlights
- Philipp Kuhn Laumersheim Spätburgunder KIRSCHGARTEN 2024: Herbal hints with stylish fruit profile. Rating: 91/100.
- A. Christmann Neustadt Spätburgunder VOGELSANG 2024: Beautifully balanced with wild strawberry notes. Rating: 94/100.
BADEN Region Highlights
- Bernhard Huber Malterdingen Spätburgunder BIENENBERG 2024: Fresh, bright with bold fruit intensity. Rating: 96/100.
- Franz Keller Oberbergen Spätburgunder BASSGEIGE STEINRIESE 2024: Nervy yet intense with layered flavor. Rating: 94/100.
WÜRTTEMBERG Region Highlights
- Rainer Schnaitmann Fellbach Spätburgunder LÄMMLER 2024: Grainy texture with lovely detail. Rating: 94/100.
- Mondays Dautel Oberstenfeld Spätburgunder FORSTBERG 2023: Silky, forward, with attractive fruity finish. Rating: 93/100.
The tasting underscored the vibrant future of Spätburgunder in Germany, showcasing the diverse expressions that each region offers through its unique terroir and winemaking traditions.