Mention the name "Friuli," and most wine enthusiasts immediately think of its exceptional white wines. However, in the Colli Orientali region, a captivating production of notable native red wines is taking root, marking a significant chapter in Italy’s northeast winemaking story.
The Colli Orientali, or ‘Eastern Hills,’ serves as the geographical extension of the renowned Collio DOC, with the two regions separated only by an administrative line. Both share mountainous terrain, similar altitudes, and a common soil type known as ponca, which is calcareous marl. They also both produce the white grape varieties that have contributed to Friuli’s fame.
What truly distinguishes Colli Orientali is its focus on red wines. While red wine represents a marginal part of Collio’s production, it constitutes approximately 25% of the output in Colli Orientali DOC, according to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Friuli Colli Orientali. The region boasts a trio of native red grape varieties that enhance its distinctive terroir: the age-worthy Pignolo, the darkly fruity Refosco, and the dry, spiced Schioppettino.
Refosco: The Survivor of Late Harvests
Refosco is not merely a single grape type but a family of varieties, with at least six members represented in Colli Orientali. The most renowned member is Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso, characterized by its unique red stems. This vigorous and thick-skinned variety thrives in sunny conditions, making it a successful contributor to the region’s wine offerings when matured properly. It boasts a vibrant ruby-violet hue and delivers flavors of cherry and raspberry, along with a lively palate.
Another variant, Refosco Nostrano, is known for producing wines with less aggressive tannins and an elegance not typically found in its family. The DOC even allows for a specialized sub-denomination featuring Nostrano wines from Faedis.
The Comeback of Schioppettino
Once widespread in the region before World War I, Schioppettino saw a significant decline due to its delicate nature and vulnerability to disease. However, thanks to the efforts of Paolo Rapuzzi from the Ronchi di Cialla estate, this variety was revived from the brink of extinction. Schioppettino is now recognized for its delicate tannins and refined structure, producing enticing wines that marry dark fruit with an elegant peppery finish.
Pignolo: The Hidden Gem
Despite its noble heritage and historical significance, Pignolo has had a troubled past, reduced to just 44 hectares by 2024. Once cultivated extensively, it nearly disappeared until rediscovered by monks at Rosazzo abbey. This demanding grape requires specific terroirs and conditions, leading to low yields but producing wines with high acidity and profound tannin concentration, capable of ageing beautifully. Such wines often reveal complex profiles that evolve over years in the bottle.
The Future of Red Varieties in Colli Orientali
Despite the historical dominance of varieties like Merlot, today’s landscape suggests a renaissance for Colli Orientali’s native reds. Producers are optimistic about the trajectory of these characterful grapes and their growing acceptance in the market.
This movement underscores the increasing recognition of local varieties that not only contribute to the richness of the region but also signify a potential resurgence in red wine production in the future.
Buyers Guide: Wineries of Note
For those keen on exploring these exceptional native red varieties from Colli Orientali, consider visiting some of the following esteemed wineries:
- Refosco: Aquila del Torre, Borgo delle Oche, Belluzzo
- Schioppettino: Antico Broilo, Le Due Terre, Monviert
- Pignolo: Butussi Valentino, Castel Santanna, Dorigo
In conclusion, as the Colli Orientali continues to establish itself as a notable producer of red wines, the future appears bright for its native varieties, which are finally garnering the attention they deserve.