Simon Field MW recently visited Hungary to taste the new releases from Royal Tokaji, particularly the 2018 vintage, which is significant as it marks the first time since 2008 that the producer has released all five of its esteemed single-vineyard wines. This vintage, named "Royal Flush," is made up of four first-growths and one second-growth (Birsalmás), showcasing the effects of a hot, dry growing season and the perfect development of botrytis on the Aszú grapes.
The historical and cultural significance of Tokaji wine is profound; even Pope Benedict XIV praised it centuries ago. The region, once overshadowed by its political circumstances and under the influence of various empires, has made strides in revitalizing its wine culture. The first classification system for wines in Tokaji was established by Ferenc Rákóczi II over 300 years ago, predating similar classifications in Bordeaux and Portugal.
Field notes that the distinctive terroir of the Tokaj region, with its unique loess, clay, and volcanic basalt soils, contributes to the character of the wines. Royal Tokaji’s current winemaker, Zoltán Kovács, emphasizes the company’s commitment to preserving the historical classification of Tokaji wines. Despite high levels of residual sugar, each vineyard maintains its stylistic identity, resulting in a captivating array of flavors.
The wines from the 2018 vintage demonstrate a remarkable range of flavors and aromas. For instance:
- Birsalmás Second Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos displays notes of plums and mandarin, leading into a tangy and seductive finish.
- Szt Tamás First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, deemed the pinnacle of Tokaji by Kovács, features complex flavors like ginger, quince, and dried apricot while remaining impressively light.
- Betsek First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos is aromatic, showcasing floral notes intertwined with spicy flavors of clove and cinnamon.
The future of Tokaji wine seems promising, with renewed attention towards dry wines and the potential expansion of single-vineyard bottlings. As the region continues to develop, it still cherishes its rich history while making strides towards a vibrant future.
For more information on Royal Tokaji wines, you can explore their offerings at their official website.