Website: https://kanzlervineyards.com/
Kanzler is a newly established boutique winery nestled in the Sebastopol Hills of the Russian River Valley, operated by Alex Kanzler and his wife Breauna. They have recently unveiled an impressive new tasting room, where I had the pleasure of touring the vineyard with Alex before sampling some of their wines in the charming new space.
The journey began when Alex’s parents relocated from Washington State in 1994. They acquired a piece of land that was once a deserted Gravenstein apple orchard. Initially, they planted a few hectares of raspberries, but on the suggestion of local neighbors, they decided to plant 15 acres of vines in 1996, establishing themselves as pioneers in the Sebastopol Hills region.
For many years, the grapes from this vineyard were sold to esteemed winery clients like Kosta Browne, Landmark, Gary Farrell, Rhys, and Rivers Marie. While they continue to sell around 40% of their grapes, they have been producing wines under the Kanzler label since 2004, steadily increasing their own output.
The journey into winemaking began in 2002 when Alex’s father, Steve, crafted wine from half a ton of grapes. By 2004, their efforts paid off, and the wine was not only tasting delightful but was also served at Alex’s sister’s wedding. That same year marked their first commercial vintage, producing 12 barrels from four tons of grapes.
Alex became more involved in 2008 and took over the winemaking responsibilities in 2011. He previously gained experience during a vintage at Landmark, and in 2009, he traveled to Central Otago in New Zealand to work with Carrick. Later that year, he also participated in the vintage at Domaine Serene in Oregon, and in 2010, he collaborated with Kosta Browne.
As for their farming practices, they refrain from using herbicides and apply some organic fertilizers. Unfortunately, they are losing a few vines to gophers and are also experiencing vine decline. During the 2024 season, they relied on irrigation just once, in mid-July during my visit, and do not engage in excessive leaf removal. The vineyard features a spacing of 5 x 8 feet, with some areas measuring 4 x 8 feet, and all vines are cane pruned.
We also had the opportunity to visit the beautifully located Mes Filles vineyard, known for producing a single-vineyard wine. This vineyard is also in the Sebastopol Hills but is elevated at the top of a hill reaching 500 feet, resulting in a unique climate due to its exposure to cool air and winds. Owned by David Gensler, the vineyard was established in 1998 with Pinot Noir and spans 9 acres, situated on the edge of the Sonoma Coast AVA.
At the winery, Alex occasionally employs inoculation, particularly when working with a significant amount of whole bunch fruit. He tends to avoid using numerous additives like nutrients. The Russian River Valley wine features approximately 25% new oak, while the vineyard designates are comprised of around 40% new oak. All wines undergo extensive aging and are racked for the first time before bottling.
The production of Kanzler wines totals just 2,500 cases, which includes a single Chardonnay and primarily Pinot Noir. In addition to utilizing their own vineyard’s grapes, they also source from other vineyards for both their entry-level cuvée and the single-vineyard wines.
Kanzler Walker Station Chardonnay 2022 Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine is crafted from one acre of Montrachet clone Chardonnay leased from Walker Station in Green Valley. With one pick and one press load, the grapes are whole cluster pressed and then placed directly into barrels, filled to the brim to prevent oxidative characteristics with ethyl acetate. As fermentation commences, they rack and return it to barrel, filling it to a lower level to allow fermentation to occur. All wine is stored in 500-liter puncheons, with 2 out of 4 being new. The wine is taut and focused, displaying exquisite crystalline citrus notes along with hints of pear and white peach, complemented by good acidity. It presents a stylish and linear profile with an appealing tension. 94/100
Kanzler Pinot Noir 2022 Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This wine is produced annually and serves as their calling card, blending grapes from all the vineyards they collaborate with. It includes 6% whole bunch due to the hot vintage, resulting in much of the fruit being harvested early. The wine is ripe and expressive yet remarkably fresh, with vibrant black cherry and blackberry flavors. It possesses nice focus and precision, with subtle hints of olive and spice adding a savory complexity to the fruit. The textural weight is delightful, skillfully balanced with freshness. 94/100
Kanzler Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2021 Russian River Valley, Sonoma
This selection from the estate is crafted to highlight the characteristics of the terroir, reflecting both the vineyard and the vintage. It typically showcases a higher presence of oak, tannin, and acidity, along with a greater use of whole bunch fermentation. The wine exhibits a delightful richness while maintaining an elegant profile, filled with dark berry flavors and intriguing floral notes. Its refined structure and vibrant energy suggest it will develop beautifully, but it also offers immediate enjoyment. This is a wine with remarkable texture, intensity, and finesse. 96/100
Kanzler Mes Filles Pinot Noir 2021 Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Exuding enchanting floral aromas combined with red cherries, subtle warm spices, and a hint of garrigue, this wine is a pleasure to behold. It features lovely notes of red fruit alongside a touch of black cherry, supported by a grainy tannic backbone. There is a faint whisper of reduction that lends elegance and purity, presenting a compact and linear character. 96/100