On a rare visit to London, Paul-Vincent Avril, the proprietor of Clos des Papes, presented a selection of his esteemed red and white wines at Berry Bros & Rudd cellars. He shared insights into the philosophy and techniques that shape his winemaking. After returning to his family estate in 1987, following enology studies in Burgundy, Paul-Vincent collaborated closely with his father, Paul. His great-grandfather played a crucial role in establishing the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation in 1936. Together, father and son worked for 25 years, striving for balance and freshness in their wine, drawing inspiration from the elegance of Burgundy.
Paul-Vincent’s straightforward aim is to produce wines for the dining table rather than for competitions—“the wines I personally enjoy drinking,” he stated. Clos des Papes sticks to one cuvée of red and one of white, deliberately avoiding new oak and small barrels to maintain the grape’s true flavor. Influenced by his Burgundy training, he emphasizes phenolic maturity over sugar levels, stating, “You have to wait for the best tannins.”
Adapting to climate change has made winemaking increasingly challenging. Since 2003, the wines have become more robust. Paul-Vincent notes the difficulties brought on by extreme weather conditions, such as storms and hail, which have decimated crops, including a notable 40% loss in 2017. He believes warmer conditions might benefit grape varieties like Mourvèdre and Cinsault, although Syrah is a growing concern.
The Clos des Papes Rouge typically consists of 55–65% Grenache, with the remainder from Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, and Counoise. Paul-Vincent insists that “80% of the wine is made in the vineyard,” emphasizing the estate’s fortunate soils and the need for respectful cultivation across its 35 hectares and 24 parcels. The estate even has a dedicated cooler-climate area for its white wine.
Certified organic, Clos des Papes employs various practices to maintain the health of its vines, utilizing natural processes to enhance grape maturity and flavor with minimal intervention. Manual harvesting is guided by tasting, ensuring only the grapes that meet his high standards reach the winery.
In the cellar, Paul-Vincent opts for co-fermentation to create a unique symbiosis among grape varieties. He relies on concrete tanks and practices gentle extraction methods to develop the wine’s character without overpowering it with heavy tannins. Aging occurs in large, neutral casks for 10–12 months, enhancing freshness while avoiding the influence of new wood.
Clos des Papes’ white wine is composed of six varieties. Paul-Vincent utilizes traditional vinification methods, including slow pressing and fermentation with natural yeasts, producing full-bodied wines that express a balance of fruit, acidity, and minerality. The whites are capable of aging as long as the reds, showcasing various phases in flavor development.
The estate produces approximately 100,000 bottles of red wine and 10,000 bottles of white annually, with half of the production exported globally. Paul-Vincent aims to craft wines suitable for aging while ensuring they can be enjoyed young, likening his process to that of a chef preparing a new dish each year.
The tasting included:
Reds:
-
2023 Clos des Papes Rouge (15.5% ABV): Deep ruby; elegant black berry fruit, requiring 10–15+ years to fully express its character. | 95
-
2022 Clos des Papes Rouge (15.5% ABV): Aromatic cherries and pepper lead to a seamless finish; age for 8–15 years. | 94
-
2021 Clos des Papes Rouge (15.1% ABV): Fresh dark-cherry aromas with sweet red-cherry notes; ages 10–20 years. | 93
-
2019 Clos des Papes Rouge (15.5% ABV): Powerful red and black fruits with a higher Mourvèdre component; ages for up to 20 years. | 96
-
2016 Clos des Papes Rouge (15.5% ABV): Youthful with firm tannins and great balance; best enjoyed in 8–15 years. | 95
-
2010 Clos des Papes Rouge (16% ABV): Complex and opulent; drink now but still offers good aging potential. | 95
-
2005 Clos des Papes Rouge (15% ABV): Diverse bouquet and elegant finish; can age for 8–10 more years. | 94
Whites:
-
2023 Clos des Papes Blanc (14% ABV): Fresh with floral hints; needs 5–8 years for complexity. | 93
-
2021 Clos des Papes Blanc (14% ABV): Concentrated with dried fruit notes; cellar for five more years. | 91
-
2020 Clos des Papes Blanc (14% ABV): Youthful with fine flavors; last 5–10+ years. | 93
-
2015 Clos des Papes Blanc (14% ABV): Rich and elegant; enjoy within 3–8 years. | 94