While visiting Vila Real in the Douro region, I had the pleasure of meeting with Tiago Alves de Sousa for lunch. Tiago teaches at the University of Trás-os-Montes e Alta Douro, where students have access to a new winery facility. During our time together, he shared insights into his innovative winemaking approach, particularly focusing on reviving traditional vineyard practices.
Historically, vineyards in the Douro were densely planted with diverse field blends, but this changed in the 1970s when new vineyards were planted with lower densities and separate varieties. Tiago’s project aims to restore this old method, preserving the true identity of the Douro. He plants 8,000 vines per hectare, employing double Guyot pruning, and includes 15 different grape varieties in each hectare.
Among the wines we tasted was a premium rosé, which Tiago claims is part of a burgeoning movement in Portugal, especially in the Douro. The vineyard for this specific rosé was intentionally designed with the style in mind. It is located at a cooler, east-facing elevation of 500 meters at Quinta da Gaivosa, predominantly featuring 80% Tinto Cão and 20% Touriga Nacional. Tiago noted that Quinta da Gaivosa has 15 hectares of Tinto Cão, making them potentially the largest producers of the grape worldwide. The production process for the rosé involves gentle pressing at low pressure, with careful fermentation and aging in barrels.
Rosé Celeste by Quinta da Gaivosa 2021 Douro, Portugal 12.5% alcohol
This wine pays tribute to Tiago’s grandmother and showcases a pale color with a savory and textural profile, complemented by lively citrus fruit and a hint of cranberry. The remarkable precision reflects good structure and acidity, making it age-worthy too. Rating: 93/100.
Next, we sampled a unique solera red wine.
Alves de Sousa Memórias MV Douro, Portugal
Made every decade, this wine blends the best from eight exceptional vintages between 2011 and 2019. The second edition contains wines from their finest vineyards, aged in a stainless steel vat since 2011. Tiago explained that blending was particularly challenging as each component contributed distinct characteristics. This edition yields 4,700 bottles priced at 200 Euros each. The wine features a complex nose of sweet black cherry and blackberry, with a concentrated palate that balances sweet fruit with grainy spices, showcasing real intensity and complexity. Rating: 95/100.
We concluded our tasting with a remarkable vintage Port.
Ampitheatrum by Quinta da Gaivosa Vintage Port 2020 Douro, Portugal
This single-vineyard Vintage Port stems from a plot that faced challenging weather conditions, leading to a minimal yield. Despite these setbacks, the concentrated fruit flavor emerged along with a vibrant acidity, making it their finest Vintage Port yet. The wine is intensely flavored, exhibiting a full structure balanced by fresh elements and notes of smoke, ash, and saltiness. This exceptional Port achieved a rating of 97/100.
Tiago firmly believes that the Douro is currently experiencing its best era, backed by the expertise of winemakers and grape growers in the region.