Joanna Simon finds the best wines to pair with the Greek meat-and-quince stew.
By Joanna Simon
Lamb stews with quinces are familiar autumn dishes of Persian, Turkish, Azerbaijani, and Moroccan cuisines—and may well be Persian in origin—so it might seem to be stretching a point to call the Greek version, kydonato, or kidonato, a classic wine-country dish; all the more so, perhaps, because kydonato can’t be pinned to one particular region in Greece.
When it is given a specific home, it’s usually one of the many islands, although not Crete, as one might have expected from the name. Kydoni, the Greek for quince, whence kydonato, is derived from the ancient Cretan city of Cydonia (present day Chania). Cydonia was famous in Ancient Greece for the abundance and quality of its quinces and gave the fruit its Latin name Cydonia oblonga.
Among the various islands considered the birthplace of kydonato are the Ionian island of Lefkada (also known as Lefkas), the broader Ionian Islands, Lesbos in the northeast Aegean Sea, and Kea in the Cyclades archipelago of the southern Aegean. While none are prominent in wine production, Lefkada is notable. Its vineyards primarily cultivate Vertzami, a dark, thick-skinned, tannic grape, gaining interest this century, particularly from Antonopoulos, who mixes it with a bit of Merlot from Achaia. Historically, the wines of Lesbos were celebrated from ancient times until the late Middle Ages. However, today, commercial production is nearly non-existent.
Kydonato, a beloved dish of indeterminate origin within Greece, is made from a combination of meat and quince and is similarly appreciated—in this season—from the eastern Mediterranean to Asia and North Africa. The dish’s flavor profile is enhanced by its slow cooking, which introduces depth, sharpness, sweetness, and a spiced aroma.
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The exact origins of kydonato are unclear. As Rena Salaman explained in Greek Food (1983, revised and updated 1993): “There was hardly any need for Greek cuisine to be documented. Recipes were typically handed down from generation to generation, from grandmother to granddaughter, by practical demonstration at the stove. Cookbooks were virtually non-existent in Athens until the early 1960s and even then, they were seldom used.”
It appears evident, nonetheless, that kydonato has ancient origins, similar to the tradition of cooking meat with sour fruits found in various cultures. Known as one of the first cultivated fruits, quinces were highly valued by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Referred to as the “golden apple” from Greek mythology, which was deemed sacred to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, quinces have been documented in Greek literature since just after 600 BC, as noted in The Oxford Companion to Food.
Unlike dishes with specific origins and recipes, kydonato does not adhere to a fixed type of meat. Lamb is predominantly used, yet variations exist such as moschari kydonato with veal, hoirino kydonato with pork, and chicken versions prevalent on Chios. Additionally, a beef and quince stew exists under the label sofigado.
Passed down through generations, each kydonato preparation carries distinctive tweaks and personal touches. Generally, predominant flavors in lamb recipes feature pomegranate or grape molasses supplemented with lemon juice, spices like cinnamon and allspice, bay leaves, and occasionally savory or thyme, with adjustments made for sweetness using honey or sugar. Typically, onions are incorporated, and sometimes tomatoes in various forms are included.
These individual recipes offer diverse flavor intensities, with management of tartness and sweetness crucial in complementing the subtle warmth and aroma of cinnamon and allspice, influencing wine pairing decisions.
My unconventional choice for a red wine while exploring northern mainland Greece is Xinomavro, particularly from Naoussa by producers like Dalamára, Thymiopoulos (notably his Earth and Sky), or Kir-Yianni. Alternatively, a blend of Xinomavro with Krassato and Stavroto in Rapsani, such as Thymiopoulos’ Rapsani Terra Petra, is a fine selection. The lighter Xinomavro reds from the cooler Amyndeo region, produced by Alpha Estate and Kir-Yianni, are also appealing, though they might be overwhelmed by kydonato.
When the kydonato leans toward a lighter style with a focus on quince rather than intense red-wine and pomegranate-molasses flavors, white wine is a viable option. I suggest trying Santorini Assyrtiko that has undergone oak fermentation, like Sigalas Barrel Assyrtiko, or those aged on lees with bâtonnage. A universal recommendation would be skin-contact white wines.
Exploring reds outside of Greece brings us to the Rhône region, which features both northern and southern styles. The Syrahs from Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage are well-suited due to their appropriate weight, vibrant fruit character, silky tannins, and peppery or occasionally smoky spice. Another similar northern Rhône-styled wine is the small production Côtes du Rhône Brézème. I’d suggest trying wines from producers like Domaine de Bréseyme and Domaine Lombard.
Other reds that pair splendidly with kydonato include Mondeuse from the Savoie Cru of Jongieux, and Barbera Asti, particularly the expressive Marchese Alfiera Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2022, known for its vibrant fruit, silky tannins, and crisp freshness.
The red wines based on Grenache from the southern Rhône are ideal when paired with the caramelized quince and spices of kydonato, which require a sweeter fruit profile and corresponding spices. Among my favorites are the Côtes du Rhône Séguret from Domaine de Mourchon, with the Cairanne appellation also offering many richly rewarding options. Lastly, a special mention to the distinctive Chateau Musar from Lebanon.