Visit the website: https://www.xxvi-talhas.pt/
Ricardo Sanios spearheads XXVI Talhas, located in Vidigueira. The winery emerged from the old cellar of Mestre Daniel (Daniel Tabaquinho dos Santos), which contained 26 talhas varying from 300-1200 liters unused for three decades following Mestre Daniel’s death in 1985. This collection of talhas directly inspired the name of the winery, which solely utilizes these traditional containers. The winery’s inaugural vintage occurred in 2018, leveraging grapes from ancient, dry-grown vines, secured at a premium price.
Ricardo notes, “The vineyard makes a big difference. The Talha doesn’t overwhelm the terroir.”
Although now possessing 35 talhas, the winery retains its original name and includes a talha dated back to 1674. Acquisition of additional talhas this year cost €1000 each. While new talhas are being crafted by some, they generally do not match the quality of the old. Initiatives to produce large talhas have been largely abandoned due to the challenging nature of crafting those up to 1200 liters, whereas new ones max out at 600 liters.
Pez, a combination of beeswax, olive oil, and pine resin, is commonly used to coat the interior of these containers. Before applying a new layer, the vessel must be heated and any old pez removed to prevent fire hazards. A notable incident occurred with Talha 5, dating back to 1847, which was destroyed due to a fire.
The producers of these unique wines have formed an association known as Assoca Productores de Vinha de Talha (APVT), which currently comprises seven members.
The winery produces wines at three different quality levels. The “Tareco” is the basic level, featuring wines that are bottled directly from the talha after aging for three months. “Mestre Daniel” wines are a step up, involving blends from various talhas and vineyards characterized by schist and sand soils, matured with skins for six months in Talha. The top tier is the single-site, single-talha wines, also branded under the “Mestre Daniel” label.
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Branco 2021 Alentejo, Portugal
Comprising Antao Vaz, Roupeiro, and Perrum with 12% alcohol, this wine incorporates 10% stems and uses 100% of the skins. It presents a finely tuned profile with a distinct chalky edge and a subtle stoniness. The texture is noteworthy, characterized by saline and chalky notes on the palate alongside flavors of citrus, pear, and a hint of apricot. It concludes with a fresh minty finish. Rated 94/100.
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Branco Talha X 2021 Alentejo, Portugal
Sourced from a single vineyard cultivated by Mestre Daniel on granite soils, this field blend registers at 11.5% alcohol. The wine is a deep yellow and emits enticing aromas of citrus, mint, apricot, and a touch of marmalade. It’s concentrated yet maintains a fresh profile with a wonderful texture and structure. It radiates brightness and purity, characterized by aromatic fruit and refined tannins. A very serious wine. Rated 95/100.
XXVI Talhas Titan de Tareco 2021 Portugal
A collaboration that blends 50% Douro and 50% Alentejo grapes, the Douro components specifically utilize Codega grapes. The 11.5% alcohol content is complemented by six months of skin contact. The bouquet is bursting with floral notes, peach, pear, and apricot with a hint of mint. On the palate, it’s fresh and well-structured, showcasing an intense fruitiness with citrusy undertones, pear skin, and a touch of apricot. The finish is clean and fine, accented by a touch of salinity and light tannic presence. Rated 95/100.
XXVI Talhas 16 Meses En Talha Branco 2020 Alentejo, Portugal
This iteration from Mestre Daniel is matured an additional year off the skins in a small Talha sealed with olive oil, presenting in a full golden hue. The resulting wine is rich and intense, offering flavors of peach, pear, apple, and lemon coupled with a grainy, gripping structure. It demonstrates remarkable freshness and precision, paired with a substantial structure. Although only 400 bottles were produced, its depth is notable. Rated 96/100.
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Tinto 2021 Alentejo, Portugal
6 months on skins. Features a warm, spicy, and grippy taste with a pleasant graininess and deep black fruit flavors. Notable for its cherry notes and earthy undertones, this blend includes Tinta Grosso, lending a peppery quality. It retains lovely freshness, though it concludes with some drying tannins. Despite that, it remains generous and delightful. 93/100
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Talha XV Tinto 2021 Alentejo, Portugal
Largely composed of Tinto Grosso. This wine boasts an intense, vivid and spicy profile, enhanced with peppery notes and hints of dried herbs. It features rich blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, and is fine and textural with sturdy, grippy tannins that showcase impressive complexity and layers of flavor. 95/100
Observations from June 2022
XXVI Talhas Palhete 2021
Very pale pink color. Exhibits a mineral and taut profile with delicate cherries and plums accompanied by a juicy essence – markedly stony and mineral in nature. 94/100
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Branco 2021
Schist and granite soils. 6 months on skins in talha. Very bright mineral and stony with lovely precision and focus. 95/100
XXVI Talhas Branco de Tareco 2021
2.5 months on skins. Minty and fresh with lovely intensity. Notes of mint and minerals with a lovely stony edge. 93/100
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Branco Talha X 2021
Single vineyard, single Talha. Intense, mineral, taut – lovely intensity. Grippy and bright with nice citrus fruit and a slight bitterness. Very fine. 95/100
XXVI Talhas Tinto do Tareco 2021
2.5 months in Talha. Very fine, expressive raspberry and cherry fruit with nice grip. Lovely fruit but with some savoury structure. So expressive, with bitter cherry on the finish. 94/100
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Tinto 2021
Underwent a six-month aging period in talha, utilizing destemmed grapes for both red and white varieties. The result is a floral and expressive wine, teeming with a nicely constructed profile of black cherry and raspberry. The presence of chalk and clay adds depth, while the overall freshness keeps it stimulating. A score of 95 out of 100 reflects its quality.
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Talha XV 2021
Also matured for six months in Talha, this variant exhibits a fine, aromatic and spicy bouquet. A pleasant mix of red cherries, plums, and a touch of spice culminate in an elegant profile, sprinkled with hints of earth and almonds. It claims a similar excellence with a score of 95 out of 100.
XXVI Talhas Mestre Daniel Talha X Branco 2019 Alentejo, Portugal
Having an alcohol content of 11.5%, this single talha wine is concocted from a blend of local white varieties harvested from a specific vineyard parcel. Presenting a full gold color, it mesmerizes with aromatic layers of mint, peach, pear, alongside subtle medicinal nuances and fresh clay. The palate is vibrant and nuanced with flavors like green tea, chamomile, pear, lemon peel, and an earthly quality complemented by a stony texture and pleasant bitter notes finishing off. Scoring 94 out of 100, it showcases great focus and complexity, reminiscent of historical white wines from the Vidigueira area in southern Alentejo.
Older notes from November 2019
Mestre Daniel Branco 2018 Alentejo
Characterized by blue granite and limestone soils, this wine underwent six months of skin contact in traditional Talha amphorae. Notable for its vibrant mandarin and orange peel aromatics with touches of apricot. The palate presents a structured, yet fresh taste with a moderate alcohol content of 12% and subtle green tea undertones, achieving an excellent balance overall. Rated 93/100.
Mestre Daniel Lote X Branco 2018 Alentejo
Sourced from a singular Talha, this field blend features grapes from 40-year-old vines rooted in granite soils and includes six different varieties. It showcases precise texture with a hint of grip, layered with spices, citrus, and nuances of grapefruit, pear, and passionfruit. Rated 94/100.
Branco de Tareco 2019 Alentejo
Exclusively fermented in a 300-liter clay vessel with an alcohol content of 12%. This wine exudes flavors of honey, nuts, and spices along with mineral notes. It possesses a waxy texture, providing both warmth and a rounded, expressive palate. Rated 92/100.
Tinto de Tareco Palhete 2019 Alentejo
Produced in a 600-liter Talha, this field blend mixes red and white grapes (palhete) with a newly wax-lined amphora used this year. The result is a fresh, grainy, and slightly waxy wine highlighting elegance and drinkability. Its textured profile suggests a light-styled red with a slight grip. Rated 93/100.
Mestre Daniel Tinto 2018 Alentejo
Featuring 12% alcohol, this wine combines a soft and juicy texture with its bright cherry and berry flavors, complemented by stony notes and a hint of leather. It’s accented with a chalky finish, remaining fresh and refined. 93/100
Tinto de Tareco 2019 Alentejo
This wine is grainy and detailed, presenting a harmonious balance with chalky undertones. It’s savory and finely grained, showcasing delightful red fruits and a warm finish. 92/100