The new releases rise to the challenge of marking Penfolds’ 180th anniversary.
By Ken Gargett
The latest vintage of Australia’s grandest wine was overshadowed by the outstanding quality of the rest of the latest releases in the annual Penfolds Collection launch, says Ken Gargett.
As ever, the impending annual release of the Penfolds Collection promotes endless speculation. Questions abound: How will Grange perform? Will it dominate as it so often does? How many countries, how many vintages will be represented? Will we see the revival of old favorites? The release of new favorites? And what surprises will the renowned winemakers have in store for us?
This year marks a significant milestone as the event will take place at the renowned Kalimna Homestead in the Barossa Valley for the first time in many years. The Kalimna Vineyard, known for being the oldest Cabernet vineyard globally, was first planted with Cabernet Sauvignon in 1888 and was acquired by Penfolds in 1945.
The vineyard’s Kalimna Shiraz was a key component of what is often heralded as Australia’s finest wine, Penfolds Bin 60A 1962. Initially, their Bin 28 was exclusively made from Shiraz sourced from this vineyard and was known as Kalimna Bin 28. In more recent times, Kalimna has hosted the acclaimed Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, which was highlighted in special releases in 1996 and 2004. Notably, in 2012, a dozen ampoules of the 2004 Block 42 were sold for $168,000 each and were immediately snapped up.
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This is a landmark year for Penfolds as they celebrate their 180th anniversary. Achieving 180 years of winemaking is a remarkable accomplishment, particularly for a winery located outside the traditional European wine regions. Originally, without the modern conveniences of calls, emails, texts, or zoom, much less the option of air travel, Penfolds had to navigate communication and visits to counterparts across the globe under more challenging conditions.
Penfolds often highlights its historical roots, noting that it was founded well before significant inventions and events such as Edison’s commercial production of the electric lightbulb, and before the implementation of effective refrigeration systems. One could also mention that Queen Victoria was less than a decade into her reign in 1844, and Karl Marx would only pen The Communist Manifesto four years later. That very year, Alexander Dumas was crafting The Three Musketeers. Meanwhile, explorers like Livingstone were just beginning their African adventures, and Charles Sturt was on a quest to discover Australia’s core. Interestingly, the year 1844 also marked the occasion of the inaugural international cricket match between the USA and Canada.
In modern times, Penfolds stands as a globally acknowledged wine producer. The new entries in the Penfolds Collection serve to amplify this reputation. Over the years, Penfolds has solidified its Chardonnay production and positioned Yattarna as a top-tier Australian white wine. Its domestic selection is unparalleled, led by the iconic Grange and supported by stellar offerings like Bin 707 and Magill, amongst others, including occasional limited and special editions. It has even embarked on an ambitious collaboration with Thiénot to bring exceptional Champagnes to the market. With well-established American and French selections, Penfolds is now also presenting wines produced in China.
In commemoration, a new wine, Bin 180, has been introduced. This exceptional mix of Coonawarra Cabernet and Shiraz hails from the esteemed 2021 vintage.
Annually, the Penfolds Collection might witness the occasional absence of a wine or two due to varying vintage conditions. This year, however, the collection remains complete, featuring a welcomed return of Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling. The collection is widely viewed as possibly the finest yet, encompassing wines from the years 2014 through to 2024, showcasing the historic brand’s ongoing excellence.
If there was an elephant in the room, it was neatly summed up by a colleague on the trip back to the airport: “Notice that there is one wine that no one is talking about?” We all knew immediately which he meant. While the latest Grange is undoubtedly a very fine wine, one that will cellar impressively for several decades, it does not seem destined to sit among the greats. There are more exciting wines in the release and, quite simply, we were so enamored of those that the Grange almost slipped through the cracks (not something one often hears).
Collectors of Grange, and those with deep pockets, should definitely seek their usual allocation—and they will be rewarded for doing so—but there are wines in the collection of even greater interest, especially with the new release of Bin 180 (whether this is through serendipity, or careful strategy on the part of the brand, I do not know. Either way, I am very grateful).
As for pricing, most wines remained unchanged from the previous release, while a few have moved up. Perhaps most notable was a fairly hefty rise for Yattarna, although in world terms, it surely remains a bargain.
Thienot x Penfolds Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2014 (A$280 / US$180 / £???).
Another exceptional Champagne from this collaborative venture, featuring a 2014 all Chardonnay from Avize from a singular vineyard. Penfolds ensures the highest quality in their products, and under Peter Gago’s leadership, their sparkling wines are highly esteemed. Peter Gago, originally hired by Penfolds for his expertise in sparkling wines, has a profound appreciation for fine Champagne. The disgorgement occurred in mid-2022, with no malolactic fermentation or dosage involved. Despite concerns that this might result in a harsher wine, extensive testing confirmed the best outcomes without dosage. Only time will reveal the final impact.
The wine’s pale-lemon hue pairs with the richness of the 2014 harvest, delivering flavors of hazelnut, honeycomb, tropical hints, citrus, and a mineral backbone. There are also nuances of orange peels and grilled bananas. It is bright, vibrant, fresh, and has a good length and solid finish. Best enjoyed within the next three to six years. | 94
Thienot x Penfolds Ay Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru 2014 (A$280 / US$180 / £???)
The fruit is sourced from the renowned grand cru of Ay. Nestled in a small area of just 0.25ha (0.6 acre), planted during the 1950s and ’60s, this vineyard neighbors a notable one owned by Bollinger. It undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation with a dosage of 5.6g/l and was disgorged in mid-2022. Typically, I would not prefer a blanc de noir over a blanc de blancs; however, this blanc de noir is an exceptional case and truly thrilling.
The flavor profile leads with a pronounced richness and maintains a steady presence of ripe fruit. Notes of brioche, toasted flavors, black-currant leaf, citrus, and raspberries are discernible. It ends gently and softly, with a drinking window that extends nicely from four to eight years. | 95
Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling 2024
(A$45 / US$30 / £30)
The outlook is promising, and this vintage ranks as the second finest Bin 51 to date, closely trailing behind the iconic 2021. Indications are that the 2024 vintage could rival or perhaps surpass the quality of years 2021 and 2022. These are exciting prospects indeed.
This is beautifully aromatic, with a pale-lemon hue. The nose exhibits notes of citrus, especially grapefruit and lemon, florals, hints of talc and bath salts, ginger, with a chalky backing. Quite a vibrant and tart, lime- and grapefruit-pith character on the palate. There is a fine line of seabreeze acidity running the full journey and a lingering finish. Exemplary balance and an early mouthpuckering quality to it. Ten to 15 years without a hiccup in good cellars, possibly quite a bit longer. | 94
Bin 311 Chardonnay 2023
(A$55 / US$36 / £32)
Penfolds’ multi-regional Chardonnay blend incorporates fruit from Tasmania, Tumbarumba, and the Adelaide Hills, and this vintage, also from Henty in Victoria. Barrel-fermentation followed by maturation for eight months in French oak barriques, 21% new.
A yellow-straw hue, there is depth of flavor here, but an immediate note of oak, which is still integrating. The nose shows lemon-curd characters, with citrus, spices, cashews, honeycomb, and white peaches. There is good intensity on the palate, with soft acidity and fine balance. A wine of very good length. A very youthful Bin 311, which seems certain to be even more impressive in 12 months and could then be enjoyed for the following four to six years. Enjoyable, though quite a way to go to reach the level we see with Bin A and Yattarna, which is how it should be. That said, this is as good a Bin 311 as I can recall. | 92
Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2023 (A$125 / US$82 / £70)
Our tasting session included three different samples of this wine, provided by Penfolds to ensure its optimal presentation. Each bottle displayed subtle variations, challenging the notion of uniformity in screwcap closures. Notably, the third sample manifested slightly superior qualities. While Yattarna consistently exhibits refinement, Bin A sometimes reveals a more untamed character. This characteristic was somewhat subdued since 2022, but traces were still noticeable in the current vintage. This year might be described as the “Goldilocks” vintage — not overly structured, yet not too wildly unbound, striking a just-right balance particularly evident in the third bottle.
The grapes are sourced exclusively from Adelaide Hills, handled with whole-bunch pressing and partially wild fermentation. The wine is aged in a combination of new and seasoned French oak barriques, incorporating bâtonnage and full malolactic fermentation, over a seven-month maturation period with 60% new oak.
The wine appears straw-colored with a subtle yet intriguing nose hinting at restrained funkiness and a whiff of struck match. It unfolds layers of stone fruits, figs, spices, and tropical nuances. The wine offers a dense, focused, and energetic profile that persists across the palate, enhanced by its texture. With its formidable structure, this vintage of Bin A is positioned for prolonged longevity, promising at least seven to ten years of evolution. | 96
Yattarna Chardonnay 2022
(A$220 / US$144 / £135)
The 2021 was the finest Yattarna I’ve experienced, until the introduction of this 2022 vintage. This new release is an exceptional Chardonnay of global calibre. Comparable to, if not slightly surpassing the ’21 vintage, it will likely excel with time. Originating from a diverse collection of vineyards in Tumbarumba, Tasmania, and Adelaide Hills, this wine undergoes eight months of ageing in French oak barriques, 44% of which are new. While some may debate that its multi-regional blend dilutes its unique terroir character, excluding it from top-tier status, many will be captivated by its outstanding quality. The question of whether multi-regional wines like Grange and Yattarna rank among the finest globally remains a topic for perpetual discussion and is ultimately subjective. Yet, if judged solely on quality, it unquestionably qualifies.
The excellence of this Chardonnay lies in its supreme balance and refinement, where even a subtle hint of nutmeg and cinnamon from the oak integration nearly vanishes. Its aroma presents notes of florals, citrus, spices, ginger, lemon butter, and glacé limes, alongside a crisp seabreeze acidity. Its structure is impeccable, almost stately—as if the consummate school prefect has returned. Oddly enough, tasting this Chardonnay brings to mind an unexpected tune, echoing Bruce Springsteen’s lyrics about an implausible scene at the Vatican. Why this association arises is a mystery, yet it strangely complements the wine’s profile. It concludes with a delicate touch of honeycomb and almonds, deceptive in its robust power and yet elegantly composed, predicting a potential longevity of 12 to 20 years. Debating between a rating of 98 or 99, I foresee it eventually meriting the higher score. Thus, for now—| 98
France
FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon / Petit Verdot / Merlot 2021
(A$120 / US$80 / £70)
Composed of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Petit Verdot, and 8% Merlot, this wine originates from what Penfolds refers to as “Vin de France.” It was aged for one year in a mix of French (32% new) and American oak barrels (9% new). I find it an improvement over the 2019 vintage, indicating progress in the production series. Clearly, it represents a notable advancement in Penfold’s ambitious global plan.
The wine presents a rich, deep purple color. The aroma is complex, featuring plums, vanilla, chocolate, dried raisins, mulberries, blueberries, cured meats, and tobacco leaves. Subtle nuances of high-quality oak are present, continuing to meld. The palate is both lush and inviting, offering robust flavors characterized by supple texture and potent essence. The tannins are refined yet assertive, complemented by vivid acidity and remarkable length. This is a flavor-packed wine recommended for enjoyment over the next 10 to 12 years. | 95
France and Australia
Penfolds II Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (A$500 / US$330 / £260)
This selection is perfect for your upcoming blind-tasting event. Penfolds has collaborated with Dourthe in France, crafting each element in their respective regions before being blended together in the Barossa. This vintage showcases solely Cabernet Sauvignon, omitting Shiraz and Merlot, comprising 64% Bordeaux and 32% Coonawarra, leaving an intriguing 4% unaccounted for.
The wine sports a deep purple color, emanating aromas of chocolate, plums, coffee beans, bay leaves, blueberries, and smoky bacon. It possesses a profound and contemplative nature, featuring a robust concentration of flavors and fruits, progressing to slightly astringent tannins. The taste crescendos to a peak of sumptuous notes of chocolate, plums, and mocha, sustained by a lasting finish. It’s advisable to savor this vintage now and over the next eight to twelve years. | 96
California and Australia
Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (A$275 / US$180 / £160)
The origin of the name stems from the initial blend, which included 14.9% South Australian grapes combined with those from Napa Valley. Although the blend ratios may change, the name persists. The current composition is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Cabernet Franc, sourced from Napa and South Australia. The aging process spanned 16 months in a combination of predominantly new French oak barriques (72%) and some new American oak (16%).
The wine displays a deep magenta color. Aromatically, it is rich with various notes including chocolate, dry herbs, bay leaves, soy sauce, beef stock, cloves, licorice, cassis, hints of bergamot, and tobacco leaves. The palate feels plush, highlighted by very soft and supple tannins and notable length. It is deliciously serious, focused, and intense, promising delightful drinking potential for the remainder of the decade. | 94
California
Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (A$125 / US$80 / £60)
The 704 designation reflects its role as the counterpart to the classic Australian 407 Cabernet, surpassing it in my preferences. Originating from Napa Valley, the wine matures for 16 months in French oak barrels, nearly half of which are new. The wine exhibits a robust structure, enriched with flavors of smoked meats, raspberries, licorice, cranberries, coffee, and chocolate. On the palate, it transitions to vibrant notes of cherry and cola, supported by fine tannins and lively zest, offering a medium-length finish with a smooth intensity. Expect it to age gracefully for three to six years. | 92
Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz 2021
(A$90 / US$60 / £45)
The 2019 vintage of this wine stood out magnificently, providing exceptional value. Although the current release doesn’t quite surpass its predecessor, it certainly makes a mark. Composed of 85% Cabernet and 15% Shiraz from Napa Valley and Paso Robles, this blend was aged for 16 months in American oak barriques, 53% of which were new.
The wine exhibits an inky maroon hue with a dark purple edge. It’s aromatic with plums, mulberries, blueberries, licorice, cloves, a hint of cigar box, and smoky cherry accents, topped with a note of rhubarb. The oak integration is noteworthy, with a subtle hint of cinnamon lingering. Appealing in its medium-weight style, it boasts good length and sleek tannins. Ending clean and fresh, it is poised to age beautifully over the next six to ten years. | 93
Howell Mountain 2021 (A$450 / US$293)
A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Cabernet Franc from the Howell Mountain sub-region of Napa. The wine matured for 16 months in new French oak barriques. As a standout single-vineyard wine within the Penfolds portfolio, which is typically not replete with such offerings, this was undoubtedly the highlight of this year’s offshore reds. Exceptional quality indeed.
Dark crimson in color, this wine beautifully blends refinement with power. It is seamless and alluring, featuring aromas of dry herbs, mocha, dark chocolate, aniseed, black fruits, soy, graphite, and beef-stock. Exhibiting immaculate balance along with extraordinary length, finesse, and persistence, this wine promises excellent aging potential, potentially providing pleasure for the next 12 to 20 years. A truly captivating wine.
| 97
China
CWT Cabernet Sauvignon Marselan 2022 (A$150 / US$100)
The WT initiative continues with notable trials such as the RWT, the red winemaking trial started by Penfolds in the late 1990s in Barossa, and the FWT, featuring French winemaking. The latest in this series is the CWT, the Chinese winemaking trial, which introduces this blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Marselan sourced from the Shangri-La and Ningxia regions—a thrilling idea, drinking wine from Shangri-La. The distance between these regions spans some 1,900 miles (3,000km). This particular wine aged for a year in a combination of French (66% new) and American (17% new) oak hogsheads. There has been discussion around the potential for a pure Marselan variety. Although Penfolds is exploring this, current trials indicate that Marselan is presently more suitable as a component of blends.
For further details, visit World of Fine Wine.
A deep maroon color characterizes this wine. On the nose, it presents aromas of dried herbs, raspberries, bay leaves, and subtle tomato-bush notes. The wine provides a firm grip, though it may seem slightly more reserved compared to others. The texture is smooth with stout tannins—a paradox indeed. On tasting, cherry flavors become prominent. This wine is moderately long in finish, offering a pleasant drinking experience with a potential of three to five years of aging. | 91
Australia
Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2022
(A$55 / US$36 / £33)
Penfolds has transitioned their Pinot Noir source from the Adelaide Hills to Tasmania over the years. The wine is matured in French oak barriques, with 30% being new.
Bright crimson in color. The aromas swirl through a range of dark cherries, raspberries, spices, herbs, violets, and a flick of undergrowth. At this stage, the flavors are very much to the fore, followed by a gentle fade. A delicious Pinot but lacking the length to be elite. Fine tannins provide an appealing silkiness. We are not told whether the wine includes any whole bunches, but it seems likely that it does. Now and for the next four or five years, the only disappointment being that the wine does not offer more length, given such a promising start. | 92
Bin 21 Grenache 2023
(A$60 / US$40 / £33)
While it released a Cellar Reserve Grenache in 2002 and has used the variety in blends for decades, it does seem that Penfolds is beginning to focus on Grenache more than it has in the past. Better late to the party than failing to show. Of course, no one doubts that, having turned its attention to the variety, Penfolds will be anything other than spectacularly successful with it. Bin 21, this vintage and last, confirms this. I like this wine a great deal.
A blend of fruit from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, maturation is for ten months in a mix of French oak (11% new and 34% older) and older American hogsheads. A magenta hue, this is a delightfully seductive wine. We have notes of strawberries; gorgeous, ripe strawberries. Dried herbs, cherries, cloves, raspberries, icing sugar, and cream all combine to add to the complexity. There is a juicy palate, with impressive length and fine balance. Enjoy this over the next six to eight years. Bin 21 will quickly prove itself to be one of the range most worth keeping an eye upon. | 93
Bin 138 Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2022 (A$60 / US$40 / £35)
Ever since its debut in 1992 and gaining Bin status in 1998, I have had a deep appreciation for this wine. This particular vintage is composed of 47% Grenache, 43% Shiraz, and 10% Mataro (also known as Mourvedre for those who prefer a more sophisticated touch). It is aged for ten months, utilizing 90% French oak (10% new), and the rest in seasoned American oak hogsheads. It nearly tops all previous releases, though the 2021 vintage narrowly maintains its lead.
The wine displays a mauve hue and exudes aromas of cherries, coffee beans, soy sauce, warm soil, mocha, black olives, plums, spices, and red fruit. There’s a distinct chocolatey presence, reminiscent of a Tim Tam biscuit. This wine demonstrates sustained intensity and length. A splendid representative of Barossa red wines, it promises to excel for at least 20 years with proper storage, and likely to evolve further over time. My only lament is the gone days when I could purchase a dozen for just 20 dollars each for my annual fishing trip. | 95
Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2022
(A$75 / US$49 / £43)
Shiraz was the grape that first gained recognition for Coonawarra, producing some of the region’s most acclaimed wines. Although it has been overshadowed by Cabernet in recent times, Shiraz has continued to delight consumers since the release of its first vintage in 1962, garnering a dedicated following. Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, shares succinct evaluations of Coonawarra Shiraz vintages: 2021 was great, 2022 greater, and 2024 looks to be the greatest, despite being very early to tell. Both the 2020 and 2023 vintages, however, did not meet expectations. The 2022 vintage, which matured for a year in French oak hogsheads with 30% new barrels, matches Gago’s high expectations. This vintage marks a departure from the use of American oak since the 1980s.
The wine appears opaque maroon and anticipates a powerful release. Its aromatic profile includes dried herbs, cassis, blackberries, mint, and cloves, offering a well-balanced and energetic bouquet with slightly drying tannins. On the palate, flavors of licorice, pastis, blueberries, and delicatessen meats emerge. It finishes long and promises a lifespan of another ten to 15 years. | 94.
Bin 28 Shiraz 2022 (A$50 / US$33 / £30)
An even more established label than Bin 128, Bin 28 Shiraz debuted in 1959, originally produced solely from the Kalimna vineyard. Today, however, it represents a blend from McLaren Vale, Barossa, Wrattonbully, and Padthaway regions, aging in American oak hogsheads for one year. This vintage ranks among the finest releases.
Inky black and purple in color. We have notes of chocolate, cassis, blueberries, bergamot, aniseed, nutmeg, soy, a hint of orange rind, and cloves. This is balanced and concentrated, with a supple and seductive texture. The palate sees the emergence of coffee beans, black cherries, and hints of licorice. With fine balance and impressive length, this will drink beautifully for between 15 and 20 years. | 95
Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz 2022
(A$100 / US$66 / £60)
This is fast becoming one of my favorite reds in the annual release, this wine and the previous release being stellar; two great vintages and the wines reflect that. From the Marananga sub-region in the heart of the Barossa, the wine saw 16 months in a mix of French oak (18% new) and American hogsheads and puncheons (14% of the hogsheads new).
Purple-maroon, this is essence of Barossa Shiraz. Concentrated, balanced, and dense, yet the wine dances across the palate. Notes of chocolate, blueberries, mocha, coffee beans, spices, and black olives. Seamless in structure, with an alluring, supple texture, there is great intensity, serious length, and the silkiest of tannins. Everything is in place for this wine still to be thrilling in 20 years. | 96
Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (A$130 / US$85/ £75)
Bin 407 consistently surprises me, not with its excellence, but with its enduring mediocrity given its price point. Each year, I anticipate discovering what others rave about. While never outright disappointing—with notable vintages like 1990 and 1996 standing out—the recurring question that arises each year is: why? The hefty sales volume hints at a possible answer; however, one wonders why consumers willingly pay this much for a wine that fails to thrill, despite being inoffensive. A melange of grape sources including Coonawarra, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, McLaren Vale, and Barossa Cabernet, aged for a year across French oak barrels (25% new) and American oak hogsheads (11% new).
The wine presents a color spectrum of maroon to bruised plum. The aroma, subdued for now, promises some development; its oak integration is competent, revealing layers of spice, herbal notes, black fruit, licorice, and hints of cold tea. Subtle undertones of chocolate, warm earth, and soy emerge yet fail to electrify, especially when compared to its reputed peers. Ultimately, its body is medium at best, leaving some doubt about its balance. Clearly, this wine charms others more than it does me. Maybe next year will tell a different story. | 89
Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2022
(A$120 / US$78 / £70)
Yet another impressive 389, offering great value within the Penfolds Collection. First crafted in 1960, Penfolds demonstrates masterful skill in blending regions and grape varieties with this offering. Comprising 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Shiraz, the grapes are sourced from vineyards across McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, and Wrattonbully. American hogsheads were used for the oak aging, with 36% being new.
The wine boasts a maroon hue, featuring aromas of black olives, soy, blackberries, cassis, chocolate, tobacco leaves, cloves, and coffee beans. It offers considerable complexity, fine silky tannins, and excellent length. A notable streak of acidity adds balance. This vintage is expected to delight for eight to 15 years. | 95
St Henri Shiraz 2021
(A$135 / US$88 / £95)
In a previous release, I noted that a great vintage of St Henri is a marvel of beauty, though the 2020 vintage, while notable, did not reach those heights. This current release, however, truly embodies a wine of exquisite beauty. Made from 100% Shiraz sourced from McLaren Vale and the Barossa—excluding Clare Valley material—this wine matured for a year in large, seasoned oak vats, where the oak influence remains minimal.
The wine, exhibiting a deep, dark purple hue, is intensely aromatic, showcasing an array of scents including cassis, violets, plums, bergamot, and chocolate. It is vibrant and focused, hinting at the complexity that will develop over time. The structure is tight, the length impressive, and it concludes with silky tannins. Notes of espresso also make an appearance on the palate. Truly regal, this outstanding St Henri is poised to mature beautifully over the next 15 to 25 years, ranking alongside notable vintages such as 2010, 2016, and 2018. | 97
Magill Estate Shiraz 2022
(A$165 / US$108 / £120)
The 2021 vintage was previously one of Penfolds’ greatest releases of Magill Estate, yet the 2022 surpasses it. Nestled within the urban sprawl of Adelaide, this vineyard stands as a proud testament to urban viticulture, akin to renowned estates like Haut-Brion. Distinctively, it is made entirely from grapes from a single vineyard since 1983. The winemaking involves both French and American oak barrels for 18 months, blending new and aged oak to enhance complexity.
The wine’s opaque maroon color is as inviting as its aroma, which seamlessly blends notes of chocolate, plums, tobacco leaves, mocha, and soy through expert oak integration. This Magill is mesmerizing, promising two to three decades of enjoyment. It impresses with its flawless structure, seductive texture, and elegant finesse. Balancing act is spellbinding, with spice and pepper notes developing over time. Persistent from start to finish, it leaves a lasting impression with its satiny tannins. A gratifying experience indeed. | 98
Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (A$300 / US$196 / £160)
This release yet again validates the excellent quality produced by Coonawarra in the 2022 vintage. Aged for 16 months in French oak hogsheads, 83% of which were new—a significant increase from the 2021 vintage—there’s a hint of nutmeggy oak that’s merging seamlessly as time goes on.
This elegant Coonawarra Cabernet features a harmonious blend of blackberries, chocolate, aniseed, graphite, soy, cloves, a touch of vanilla, and bay leaves. Remarkably youthful, the wine is expertly crafted with a fine structure and superb balance, culminating in a long-lasting finish. It displays a bright streak of acidity and ultra-smooth tannins that are nearly invisible. This wine exemplifies mastery in winemaking, with all elements aligned for it to mature gracefully over the next couple of decades, although it is already captivating to taste. | 97
RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022 (A$200 / US$130 / £125)
In future discussions, aficionados will delight in comparing the top-tier Penfolds red wines from the 2021 and 2022 vintages. Each year has been outstanding, a necessity considering the exceptionally high ratings they have received. In some instances, the 2021 vintage is the standout, while in others, 2022 takes the top spot, with some choices remaining a toss-up. The RWT is a prime example of such an undetermined champion, yet it is clear that these two vintages represent the finest expressions of this label. The wine was aged for 14 months in French oak hogsheads, with 67% being new. Penfolds refers to the hue as “Barossa Noir,” an intriguing descriptor.
The RWT typically displays a refined and elegant quality that distinguishes it from other reds in the Penfolds collection, and generally surpasses most Barossa Shiraz. The integration of oak is masterful, complementing aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, plums, licorice, blackcurrants, and cassis. This structure lends a touch of austerity, with the wine showcasing a darker fruit profile than usual for RWT. With time, notes of bay leaves, axle grease, and spices become pronounced. It features refreshing acidity and smooth tannins, culminating in exceptional length. This exceptional RWT, predicted to flourish for at least two decades, is a standout example of the elegance Barossa Shiraz can achieve, making it truly rare. | 98
Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (A$800 / US$523 / £450)
This release again brings a tight competition between this wine and its previous year’s counterpart. This Cabernet hails from diverse regions including Coonawarra, Barossa, Padthaway, and McLaren Vale, and is aged exclusively in new American oak for eighteen months. This production is not typical, yet it continues to be notably successful.
The hue is a deep shade of maroon. The bouquet offers a delightful blend of blackberries, licorice, axle grease, spices, coffee, dark chocolate, soy, and mocha, presenting a truly luxurious wine. With a lively essence of black cherry and cassis, complemented by touches of charcuterie, this wine demonstrates perfect precision, balance, and intensity, possessing both strength and elegance. It is an outstanding example of a 707, starting and finishing with equal potency. This wine can greatly benefit from cellaring over 20 to 30 years, potentially becoming a cherished treasure for future generations. | 98
Grange 2020 (A$1,000 / US$653 / £600)
The yearly unveiling by Penfolds is often dominated by the release of Grange among other wines. This century has witnessed several exceptional Granges from the years 2002, 2004, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2016, and 2018, leaving curiosity about the performance in odd years, though 2021 is anticipated to break this mold. The 2020 Grange is undeniably a fine wine, and a commendable rendition of Grange itself, but might not be considered among the best, particularly within this year’s Penfolds Collection, which could unfairly overshadow its merits.
Similar to the 2019 version, it comprises 97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured for 20 months in new American oak hogsheads slightly longer than its predecessor. The grapes are sourced from McLaren Vale, the Barossa, and the Clare Valley, with no inclusion of Coonawarra grapes in this edition.
A deep, rich maroon color characterizes this wine, denoting its ripeness and robust flavors typical of Grange. It features an array of spicy undertones complemented by blackberry, chocolate, soy, aniseed, and black olives, with a pronounced presence of high-quality oak influences highlighting cassis and mocha prominently. Its complexity is noticeable even at this early stage, with espresso and darker chocolate nuances surfacing as it breathes. The wine demonstrates excellent focus, impressive length, and smooth tannins, predicting a bright future. It could potentially excel for 15 to 20 years, possibly more in optimal cellar conditions. | 96
Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2021 (A$1,180 / US$770 / £650; magnums A$3,500 / US$2,300; 3-liter Jeroboams A$18,000 / US$11,760)
This wine marks Penfolds’ 180th anniversary splendidly, with 180 magnums and 8 Jeroboams available in addition to standard bottles. It epitomizes the iconic Australian red blend from Coonawarra—a standout vintage from 2021. The blend comprises 57% Cabernet from Block 10 and 43% Shiraz from Block 5, which are sources for Bins 707 and 169. Aged 16 months in one-year-old French oak hogsheads, this wine is poised to join the ranks of Penfolds’ celebrated special releases, especially for those seeking an alternative to the latest Grange.
The color is a nearly opaque purple-maroon. Its bouquet is complex, featuring black fruits, bergamot, licorice, cold tea, smoked meats, blueberries, and chocolate. Over time, tobacco and mocha spice up its aroma profile. The palate is luxurious, deeply extracted yet perfectly balanced with bright acidity and silky tannins culminating in an engaging, lasting finish. This wine is not just a one-off but an exquisite creation promising huge enjoyment for up to thirty years. | 99