François Chasans, originally a sommelier from France, ventured into Portugal in 1998 to attend an agricultural fair in Santarem, located in the Tejo region. It was at this event where he experienced his first taste of Bairrada wine, instantly falling in love with it. This newfound passion led him to purchase his first vineyard in Bairrada less than a year later.
The Bairrada region wasn’t known for its high-quality wines at the time. In fact, according to François, they were considered some of the poorest wines in Portugal, characterized by in-bottle malolactic fermentation and a generally rough quality. The more acclaimed wines were believed to come from the Dão region during this period.
However, François’s interest in the history of wine was piqued by the traditional winemaking at the Buçaco palace. This deeper understanding of the area’s wine history motivated him to expand his vineyard holdings. His winemaking journey began earnestly in 2008 with assistance from Mario Sergio of Bageiras, a notable local producer.
As of now, François manages 7 hectares of biodynamically cultivated vineyards. These vines were established using a method that involves planting rootstock followed by grafting. Influenced by the Encruzado variety from Buçaco tasted in 2015, he chose to add it to his vineyard. Unfortunately, a significant portion of his Encruzado harvest was stolen in 2021.
François believes that the distinctive acidity in Bairrada’s wines, amplified by significant diurnal temperature shifts influenced by the Atlantic, is their most notable quality. Within his winery, he favors using large wooden tonels and also incorporates clay and concrete vessels for aging his wines.
Initially discouraged by the veteran vintner Luis Pato, who warned that producing exceptional Baga grapes was feasible only once in every five years due to climatic challenges, François was driven to pursue optimal ripeness relentlessly.
In the early stages, he aimed for maximum maturity. However, the years 2013 and 2014 marked a turning point as he observed that achieving ripeness was less problematic than anticipated, contrasting previous beliefs. Traditionally, growers in Bairrada would conduct three separate harvests from the same vines—first for sparkling wines, then red wines, and finally for reserve (garrafeira) wines, as a tactic to manage underripe grapes. François, learning from his experiences in 2013 and 2014, chose to target a moderate alcohol content of 12.5% instead of pushing grapes to their maximum maturity.
Baga is a versatile variety, he says. In order to appreciate these wines, they need time, and the bottle needs time after opening.
Vacariça Baga 2019 Bairrada, Portugal
12.5% alcohol. Fermented and matured in an Italian amphora. Complex nose of spices, undergrowth and black cherries. Rich on the palate with burly, sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit with some inherent richness. Bold with sweet fruit and some wild spicy notes. There’s a sense of richness to this wine, with the bold fruit complemented by fine spicy notes, finishing lively. 92/100
Quinta da Vacariça Garrafeira Terroir de Cardosas 2013 Bairrada, Portugal (magnum)
14% alcohol. A hot vintage. Warm nose of sweet cherries with some earthy notes and an appealing spiciness. The palate is concentrated and richly fruited with sweet cherries. It’s bold and rich with a lovely sweet core and notes of clay, spice and earth. Broad and textural with nice intensity and depth. 94/100
Quinta da Vacariça Garrafeira Terroir de Cardosas 2014 Bairrada, Portugal
This was the wet vintage where there were three weeks of rain during harvest. This is earthy and savoury with some spice and mineral notes as well as some cherry and plum fruit. Quite firm and structural with grip on the finish. Has a distinctive savouriness. 92/100
Quinta da Vacariça Garrafeira Terroir de Cardosas 2015 Bairrada, Portugal
This vintage marked a remarkable year. It was richly structured and concentrated, featuring robust flavors of black cherry and blackberry complemented by earthy tones and hints of spice, including a touch of tar. Its grip and density are notable, yet it achieves a harmonious balance with its fruit and structural elements. The finish is firm, promising significant potential for future development. 95/100
Quinta da Vacariça Garrafeira Terroir de Cardosas Tonel 23 2011 Bairrada, Portugal
Aromatic with earth and spices, accented by sweet herbs and cherry nuances. On the palate, it offers a captivating texture that is both earthy and spicy, with hints of decay that only add to its character. The wine presents rich concentration and depth, showing mature, ripe fruit alongside clear signs of evolution. Despite its maturity, it retains a firm structure, offering a complex profile. 94/100
Quinta da Vacariça Garrafeira Terroir de Cardosas 2008 Bairrada, Portugal
This inaugural vintage, crafted at Bageiras, reveals a lively, complex, and spicy character with vivid black fruit flavors. Firm tannins and vibrant acidity provide a backbone, complemented by a sweet core of fruit which adds depth and density. A slight prickle on the finish enhances its distinctive character. 92/100