Daniel and Cécile Brunier hosted a dinner at Mauro’s Table at Raffles London, showcasing wines from their family estates, including Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Domaine Les Pallières in Gigondas.
For Daniel, Grenache is at the heart of the family’s approach. The grape’s character shifts with its place of origin and the choices made in the winery, he explained, so their decisions about soils, barrels and harvest timing are shaped around it. He also stressed that the wines reflect their soils more than any particular winemaking technique.
The Brunier family has passed the day-to-day management to the sixth generation: Daniel’s son Édouard and his niece and nephew, Manon and Nicolas. Daniel and his brother handed over about a decade ago, but he said the transition has preserved continuity between generations.
Climate change is a growing concern, particularly the risk of water shortages. The family’s vineyards sit on a plateau over a deep layer of clay that retains moisture, and they have not needed to irrigate. Harvest dates, however, are now more than 15 days earlier than they were in the early 1990s.
To help vines cope with heat and dry summers, the family is maintaining old vines with deep roots and increasingly using whole bunches, which can moderate alcohol and the impression of weight. In the cellar, they favour slow extraction and infusion over forceful extraction, aiming for freshness and balance.
Wines from the dinner
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2023 Clos Roquète, Famille Brunier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc — 94/100
A textured blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne from sandy soils. Peach and pear meet stony, mineral notes, honey and spice, with richness balanced by freshness. -
2024 La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc — 95/100
From vines averaging 60 years old on La Crau’s stony soils. Lively and defined, with pear, lemon, a touch of apricot and saline notes. -
2020 Racines, Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas — 94/100
Made predominantly from Grenache, with Syrah and Cinsault, from vines averaging 90 years old. Long maceration with whole bunches and ageing in large-format oak bring ripe cherry and berry fruit, blackberry, chalk and firm tannins, while retaining freshness. -
2022 Piedlong, Famille Brunier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape — 95/100
Mostly Grenache from old vines on a high, south-facing plateau. Elegant and ethereal, with supple red-cherry and strawberry fruit, fine herbal notes and no heaviness. -
2020 La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape — 95/100
A concentrated, focused wine with black cherry, spice, sage and pepper. Its depth is supported by fine-grained tannins. -
2012 La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape — 95/100
Supple and brooding, showing black cherry and blackberry, with finesse, balanced fruit and a pleasingly grainy texture. -
2025 Vin du Naturel, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, Domaine des Bernadins — 94/100
Sweet notes of orange peel, grapes and honey are lifted by freshness and a hint of aniseed.
The wines accompanied a menu that included borage flowers with palourde clams, beetroot with caviar, native lobster with celeriac and vanilla, and pigeon with cabbage and wild berries. The evening concluded with a 2011 Vieux Marc de Vieux Télégraphe.