If you find yourself in the Veneto region during the last week of May, you would have the chance to attend the Festa dei Bisi, celebrating the pea harvest in Peseggia di Scorzè, a time-honored gastronomic event that highlights the importance of fresh seasonal peas. While the festival features various activities, the star of the show is undoubtedly risi e bisi, a beloved dish that melds the textures of risotto and soup. This hybrid dish can be enjoyed throughout the region from April onwards.
How to Make Risi e Bisi
Unlike traditional risotto, risi e bisi has a distinctive preparation method. It does not require the gradual addition of broth or the inclusion of wine, resulting in a thicker, more soupy consistency. This dish is often eaten with both a fork and a spoon, as opinions on the best utensils vary.
Dubbed “rice and peas,” this dish may seem simplistic with its basic ingredients: rice, peas, and broth. However, it has a rich history and was served at the illustrious Ducal Palace during the feast of St Mark in Venice. Its origins likely trace back to the Byzantine Empire, evolving from inland Vicenza before making its way to the coastal city of Venice.
The dish gained literary recognition in the 18th century when playwright Carlo Goldoni mentioned it in his comedy Sior Todero Brontolon. It also became a symbol of Italian pride during the 19th century, with the phrase risi e bisi e fragole resonating against Austrian rule. Today, it continues to delight palates, including that of former U.S. presidents Barack and Michelle Obama, who have enjoyed the dish prepared by renowned chef Tony Mantuano.
Ingredients and Preparation
The key components include rice, peas, and stock, with sautéed onion typically in olive oil and optionally finished with Parmesan and butter. The classic rice used is Grumolo delle Abbadesse, a variety of vialone nano, paired with the preferred Lumignano peas. Traditional preparations call for all liquid to be added at once, although some chefs adapt by incrementally adding broth like they would in risotto.
For the stock, options include vegetable broth made from pea purée or meat-based stocks, depending on personal and regional preferences. The recipe also allows for variations such as the addition of prosciutto crudo, particularly in Vicenza.
Wine Pairings
When it comes to pairing wine with risi e bisi, the general rule suggests that finer wines pair well with simpler dishes. This dish is best complemented by younger wines that offer purity and freshness. Preferably white, wines from northeastern Italy excel in enriching the dish’s green sweetness. Notable wine options include Bianco di Custoza, Lugana, and Soave Classico, among others.
Choosing the right wine may depend on the specific broth used; for instance, if using a pea-pod broth, consider lighter wines such as a racy Alto Adige Sauvignon Blanc or a Friulano from Collio. If incorporating prosciutto, Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave sing in harmony with the flavors.
Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige stands out as an exceptional match across various preparations. Other recommended wines include Alsace Pinot Blanc and Austrian Grüner Veltliner, both of which complement the dish beautifully.
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