With its ample winter snows and an extended growing season, the 2021 vintage in Barolo proved to be exceptional for Nebbiolo, according to Andrew Jefford. A recent tasting of 50 wines by Jefford, along with Bruno Besa and Michael Palij MW, showcased the quality of this year as they delved into tasting notes and scoring.
Winter conditions were ideal for preparing the vines. A snowy January, the wettest start to the year in the 21st century, helped retain moisture in the soils, setting the stage for the growing season. However, frost in early April affected certain regions, losing about 10% of the expected crop but potentially enhancing quality.
As the months progressed, temperatures fluctuated, with a hot summer leading to a successful harvest in September. Vintners reported that the timing allowed vines to ripen at a leisurely pace, which is particularly favorable for Nebbiolo. The resulting wines from 2021 reflected structure, drive, energy, and freshness.
The tasting revealed a strong performance with numerous high-scoring wines. Besa and Palij each identified 26 wines scoring in the upper categories, indicating that more than half of the sampled wines were deemed “outstanding.” The 2021 vintage firmly established itself among the greats, with accumulated scores well above those of previous years.
Bruno Besa noted the wines exhibited "vibrant acidity and powerful tannins," foreseeing their potential for long-term enjoyment, while Palij provided a more cautious analysis, suggesting the prevalence of true greatness was not as widespread as anticipated. However, he acknowledged the vintage offered a rare mix of aromatic and structural qualities.
The top performers from the tasting included:
- Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo Monvigliero Verduno 2021 – Scored 96, noted for its complexity and vibrant fruit notes.
- Casa E di Mirafiore Barolo Lazzarito Serralunga d’Alba 2021 – Scored 96, distinguished by its inviting flavors and textbook Barolo characteristics.
- Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana Serralunga d’Alba 2021 – Scored 95, recognized for its bright fruit and refined tannins.
- Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta Serralunga d’Alba 2021 – Scored 95, well-regarded for its youthfulness and balance.
- Ceretto Barolo Bussia Monforte d’Alba 2021 – Scored 95, praised for its elegance and complexity.
Verduno topped the commune rankings based on the tasting, with Monforte and Serralunga closely following. Overall, the 2021 Barolo vintage stands out as a compelling choice for wine enthusiasts, promising deep flavors and an exhilarating drinking experience for years to come.
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