A recent tasting event in New York showcased Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2023 vintage wines, offering a pleasure-filled exploration that revealed unexpected nuances. While the expectation for 2023 was lush and ripe fruit due to its sunny and high-yielding nature, the final wines surprised tasters with their complexity compared to the initial barrel impressions.
Perrine Fenal, co-director of the Domaine, emphasized the variability of the vintage, which in retrospect was more intricate than remembered. The success of their wines relies on seeing each as an individual case and adapting their approach. This meticulous attention to detail allowed for distinct characters in the wines, even amid adverse climatic conditions.
Bertrand de Villaine highlighted that the vineyard’s adaptability is crucial, showing how practices like green harvesting have become part of their strategy. The harvesting process had notable shifts as well, with the early picking of Montrachet and Grands-Echézeaux—a departure from tradition that reflects their expanding holdings.
The tasting revealed some significant individual characteristics in various wines. The Corton exhibited a pronounced rustic quality, while the Duvault-Blochet offered impressive structure earlier than expected. Echézeaux appeared more polished than its barrel taste, and the Romanée-Conti showcased its typical depth and flavor variety, surpassing the initially flamboyant La Tâche. Both whites, Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet, evolved into vibrant wines, showcasing unexpected freshness.
Despite initial thoughts that 2023 would yield easy-drinking wines due to the conditions, the tasting demonstrated the potential for crafting wines with age-worthy qualities. Careful vineyard management, thoughtful picking, and considerate cellaring practices have combined to create an exceptional vintage that promises longevity.