Oltrepò Pavese, in Lombardy in northwest Italy, is a hilly wine region bordering Piemonte, Liguria and Emilia-Romagna. Although it also produces still wines, the focus of a recent tasting was Classese: traditional-method sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir.
Classese production is growing quickly. The region currently produces around 800,000 bottles, up from 400,000 two years ago and 600,000 last year. Production could reach one million bottles next year. Riccardo Binda, director of the regional consortium, says five million bottles may eventually be possible, depending on demand. For comparison, neighbouring Franciacorta produces about 20 million bottles of traditional-method sparkling wine.
Classese must be made from Pinot Noir and aged on its lees for at least two years. Oltrepò Pavese is the only Italian region devoted exclusively to traditional-method sparkling wines from the variety. Its vineyards span elevations of roughly 200 to 600 metres. Of the region’s 150 wine producers, 45 make sparkling wine, though only two specialize in it.
Traditional-method sparkling wine has been made here since 1865. According to Binda, the region’s wines have received little attention partly because its best grapes and wines often went elsewhere, including to Piemonte. The consortium is now working to establish Classese’s reputation as a distinctive source of Pinot Noir sparkling wine.
A blind tasting opened the event with six bottles, including Classese and Pinot Noir-based Champagnes. Several of the regional wines showed the freshness, precision and depth to stand alongside the Champagnes:
- Champagne Bollinger PN AYC21 — Toasty richness, marzipan, honey, nuts and spice, balanced by cherry, lime and a hint of salt. 95/100
- Calatroni Poggio dei Duca 2020 — Aged 48 months on lees; rich and deep, with apple, lemon and lime. 94/100
- Monsupello Blanc de Noirs Classese NV — Zesty lime, toast and subtle nuttiness, with cherry and apple. 93/100
- Champagne Philipponnat Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2019 — Vivid citrus, cherry and a saline edge. 93/100
- Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut NV — Bright, juicy and textured, with orange peel, lemon zest and cherry. 93/100
- Ballabio Farfalla Cave Privée Vecchie Vigne 2018 — Precise and energetic, with cherry, pear, apple and a savoury touch. 92/100
The larger Classese tasting revealed a broad range of styles, from taut, citrus-driven wines to more developed bottles with toast, fruit and savoury complexity. Among the highest-rated were Brandolini I Ger 2020, Fiamberti Caristoro Extra Brut NV, Montelio 17 Fiorile 1803 Extra Brut Classese 2021, Torre Degli Alberi Pas Dosé 2021, La Versa Principio Testarossa 2008 and the mature La Versa Testarossa Metodo Classico 1990, each scoring 93/100.
The 1990 La Versa was especially striking for its freshness and complexity, with crystalline citrus, toast, wax, pear and peach. Other wines that stood out included Bruno Verdi Vergomberra Dosage Zero 2012, Conte Vistarino Pinot Nero Extra Brut 1865 2020 and La Travaglina Martinburgo Classese 2018, all rated 93/100.
Across the tasting, recurring qualities included bright citrus and cherry fruit, lively acidity, saline or herbal notes, and a balance between freshness and lees-derived richness. The range suggested that Oltrepò Pavese’s Pinot Noir sparkling wines are developing a clear identity—and that the region has room to grow.