The 1989 vintage was a pivotal moment for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, marking a shift from longstanding traditions to modern winemaking styles. This turning point saw the introduction of the Cuvée Spéciale, which aimed to encapsulate the essence of the exceptional terroir found in the region.
Traditionally, estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape produced a single red and sometimes a white wine by blending across various parcels. However, in 1989, several estates such as Château de Beaucastel with its Hommage à Jacques Perrin, Domaine les Cailloux with its Cuvée Centenaire, and Clos du Mont-Olivet’s Cuvée du Papet began to offer an additional premium bottling. This collective movement swiftly placed the Cuvée Spéciale as a standard practice rather than an exception, with earlier iterations crafted by estates like Domaine Roger Sabon and Château la Nerthe.
Having tasted the 1989 Cuvée du Papet in 2019, the experience sparked a desire to delve deeper into this cuvée, leading to an invitation for a vertical tasting at Clos du Mont-Olivet. At the estate, Thierry Sabon, who co-owns with his cousins, emphasized a philosophy of quality over quantity. The estate, founded in 1932, encompasses a variety of parcels and is known for its sandy clay soils, which are ideal for producing wines with finesse.
The name "Papet," derived from the Provençal word for grandfather, pays homage to their grandfather, Séraphin Sabon, illustrating the family’s reverence for their heritage. This name also resonates with the character of the same name from the films "Jean de Florette" and "Manon des Sources," encapsulating the rural essence of the time.
In crafting La Cuvée du Papet, Thierry explained that no single plot is designated; instead, they select the finest fruit from various vineyards each year. The blend typically comprises around 80% Grenache, supplemented by Syrah and Mourvèdre, and employs around 50% whole bunches during fermentation, enhancing the wine’s complexity.
Despite some critics arguing that the Cuvée Spéciale led to overblown and heavy wines in the 1990s, the initial vintages of La Cuvée du Papet have proven to be remarkable, showcasing the true potential of the terroir and validating the forward-thinking approach of the class of ’89.
For those wishing to explore these wines, several notable tastings from past decades include:
- Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvée du Papet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 1989 – A celebrated year with remarkable freshness and complexity.
- Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvée du Papet, 1990 – Retaining floral aromas alongside enjoyable strawberry notes.
- Clos du Mont-Olivet, La Cuvée du Papet, 1998 – Featuring a complex nose with eucalyptus and smoked elements.
This lineage of wines underlines the importance of tradition while embracing thoughtful evolution, offering enthusiasts a rich experience of Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s history and terroir.